I would like to add a bathroom fan to the existing end line light switch. I am fine with the switch controlling both the light and fan at the same time as the light only has 14-2 running to the switch and I believe it would need 14-3 or 12-3 if I wanted each of the units to have it's own switch. Correct?? Can I add the exhaust fan onto the existing switch so the switch will turn both the fan and the light on at the same time and if it is possible, how?
Electrical – How to add a bathroom fan to the existing end line light switch
bathroomelectricalexhaust-fan
Related Solutions
Without knowing more about the current wiring, it's hard to say exactly what you'll have to do. I'm assuming the feeder from the panel enters at the switch, but I'll try to cover some other situations as well.
Power at the switches
If the power enters at the switches, you should already have a feeder cable (probably 14/2 with ground) coming into the box. There will then be two (again, probably 14/2 with ground) cables leaving the box. The cable that enters will be spliced (or pigtailed), on the black (hot) to feed one side of each switch. The white (neutral), will be spliced and connected to the white wires of both exiting cables, The bare ground wire will be connected to both switches, both wires exiting the box, and possibly the box itself. You won't have to worry about the light over the vanity, since that will not change. You will, however, have to add an additional cable between the light in the shower and the fan.
Without seeing the location, it's difficult to say exactly what the best method is to run this cable. Though if you have access from above, it should not be that difficult. Start by turning off the power to the circuit at the breaker. Once you've run the cable, connect the fan. Black to black, white to white, bare ground to green or terminal screw. At the light over the shower, you'll have to again connect black to black, white to white, and ground to ground. If the light uses screw terminals, you'll have to use pigtails to make the connections. To do this, simply remove the existing connections (making sure to remember what went where). Use a wire nut to connect the wire that was connected to the fixture to the wire in the new cable, and a 6" bit of scrap wire. Then connect the 6" pigtail to the fixture, and repeat for each wire. It might be helpful to do one set of wires at a time, so all the wires are not disconnected from the light fixture at the same time.
Finish by reinstalling the fixtures, and turning the power back on.
Power at the lights
This is less common, though may be the case if the lights were not installed at the same time. In this case, you'll have a feeder cable (from the breaker) entering both light fixture boxes (or possibly only one, depending on the setup). In this situation, you have two separate circuits (that may or may not be controlled by the same breaker, so be careful). Again, we'll only have to worry about the switch and light over the shower.
Turn off the breaker that controls the light over the shower (and the one that controls the vanity light, if they are not the same). As before, you'll have to run a new cable between the shower light and the fan. Once that is complete, connect the fan following the steps above. In the light box, you'll likely see that the black wire from the feeder cable connects directly to the existing cable that exits the box. This is feeding power to the switch. You should also see a black stripe, or tape on the white wire from the cable that goes to the switch. This wire is only hot when the switch is on, and you'll have to connect it to the black wire on the light and the black wire in the new cable you installed. The white wire from the feeder cable should be connected to the white wire on the light. You'll want to tie the white wire from the fan, in with these wires. Connect all the bare/green ground wires together, to complete the wiring.
Finish by reinstalling the fixtures, and turning the power back on.
Other information
If the fan was controlled by another switch (or whatever), you'll have to trace the feeder back to its source, disconnect it, and cap the wires. You don't want to leave live wires hanging around in the walls.
I mention wires by color, but keep in mind what I say and what you see might be completely different. The descriptions and diagrams I use are for a typical installation, there is no telling what was done by a previous owner. Make sure to verify what each wire is, where it goes, and where it comes from.
If you'd like the shower light and fan to be controlled by a timer, you can swap the current switch out for a timer (there are many available). Just make sure the timer is rated for motor loads, since you'll be running the fan motor off of it.
As always, if you do not have the knowledge or tools; or are simply not comfortable doing the work, please don't hesitate to call an Electrician.
You can use the switch to operate both the fan and light, if you so choose. In fact, this is a common feature in single user public restrooms. As long as the switch and wiring are rated for the amount of current, which unless you get a huge fan, it should be.
If you have the ability to install a new cable (or pull an extra wire, if the wires happen to be in conduit), you could use a device that has two switches that fit in a single gang box. Which would allow you to control each device separately.
Related Topic
- Electrical – Can an existing exhaust fan with a light and night light be replaced with just an exhaust fan and a seperate can light in the shower
- Electrical – Adding exhaust fan to existing single light switch
- Switch – Seperating bathroom light and exhaust fan on single switch
- Wiring bathroom exhaust fan / light
- Replace Broan 670 with new fan/light from bathroom
- Electrical – Bathroom exhaust fan and light switch separation
Best Answer
The answer to your only stated question is YES. To independently switch 2 different things you need to have 2 switched hot wires, you would have to run an additional wire from the wall switch location to the ceiling location.
The statement that "the light only has 14/2 running to the switch" tells us that one of those wires is a hot lead to the switch, the other is the switched hot that runs back up to the light (unless there are other/more wires that you did not mention).