electricalwiring
I am trying to set up a outdoor patio. I realized that I have this outdoor outlet that is not set up. I did some research online and learned that to set it up:
test electricity for which one is line and load
connect it to a gfci outlet.
However, I noticed that there are 2 white and 3 black with one green wire. Isn't it usually 3 whites and 3 black with green as ground?
I am super new to electricity and DIY things in general. So thank you guys for your help.
Read inside the box. If you install 14 AWG conductors to the new box, instead of 12 AWG conductors. You'd need at least a 22 cu.in. Box, or a 3" x 2" x 3 1/2" device box.
11 total, times 2.00 cu.in. for 14 AWG conductors = 22 cu.in.
However, since you're using 12 AWG, the calculation looks like this...
Total = 23.25 cu.in.
For more information on box fill, check out this answer
As for connecting the new wire. There should be no problem attaching it to the receptacle. However, since you're using 12 AWG conductors, you'll have to use the screw terminals.
If you want to do pigtails, you can. I know some guys don't like the backstab connections, so if you want to avoid using them you can do pigtails. Ideal 76B® Red Wire-nut® Wire Connectors are rated for 2 to 5 #14 conductors, but check with the manufacturer of the connectors you're using. Again, if you're going to do this, you'll want to use #14 conductors instead of the #12 you've installed.
First, your illustrations are Mad Awesome. You could illustrate electrical books. Literally. You might even talk to Mike Holt or others doing electrical docs.
You still have some knowledge gaps, so I'd school up some more. For a guy as smart as you, knowledge is cheap.
If you are good at visual, stay with that. Buy a variety-pack of electrical tape colors, and a couple feet of 12/3 cable because it's a cheap way to get a variety of wire colors for pigtails. 12 gauge is the universal donor size, it is acceptable on any common 120v circuit up to 20 amp breaker. 14ga is only allowed on 15A breakers/with 14ga wire.
First, permanently wrap (tag) the white wire of cable C with red tape. From your comments elsewhere that there is only one cable going to the switch, that is a switch loop. Also open up the switch box and wrap the other end of that same white wire.
Next, permanently wrap (tag) the black wire of cable A with red tape. Since the switch is a switch loop, this cable is the only possible way the lights could possibly be receiving (switched) power.
Now grab your receptacle and some stripped Romex and sit at a convenient workbench. Put 6" pigtails of wire as follows. Use the screw terminals or screw-and-clamp if you have that type. Avoid backstabs (they're not reliable) and never use 12AWG on a backstab.
Ready?
Splice all same colors together.
See, what I did was color-code all the wires to their function rather than the default colors of /2 cable. The switch loop has only hot (black) and switched-hot (red). The wire to the lights needs switched-hot (red) and real neutral (white).
In new work, they commonly use red for the switched hot, because the law now requires neutral in switch loops (for smart switches). So they run some /3 cable up there.
Best Answer
That's because your wiring is in conduit, which is actually the deluxe way to do things.
I disagree with the advice you are getting regarding "hook the supply wires to LINE and the other wires to LOAD". You should not use LOAD at all, ever, unless you are doing a very specific thing, you know exactly what you are doing, and you comply with Code in doing it. That "thing" is extending GFCI protection to other outlets. You must label those outlets "GFCI Protected", which obviously requires that you know which ones they are lol.
Protecting random downlines-you-know-not-where seems like a "can't hurt, might help" sort of thing... but actually, it can go badly wrong several ways, and you don't have the experience to resolve those problems. It is likely to turn into a fiasco... Just avoid LOAD altogether as a general rule.
Those wires don't appear to be color-coded. My guess is you are looking at
2 whites = neutral (supply and onward) 2 blacks = always-hot (supply and onward) Solo black = switched-hot
If there's a switch somewhere that appears to do nothing, that may switch this wire. (provision for Christmas lights?) Perhaps they wanted to give you the option of a "split receptacle" (one socket powered one not). That won't happen with a GFCI obviously, but you could choose whether to attach the GFCI to the unswitched or the switched wires.
So you'll be putting 1 or 2 wires on each LINE terminal... read the GFCI instructions for how to do that, and torque the screws HARD (preferably to spec with a torque screwdriver).