First of all, when you read about a "50W LED", it is certainly saying that it outputs the equivalent light of a 50W incandescent light (although that is often a exaggeration). That "50W" LED actually draws less than 10 watts. This means that it draws much less current and emits much less heat, both of which are the factors that typically limit the allowable light in a fixture.
You'd be able to replace a 50/100/150W 3-way with a lower wattage, even if staying with incandescent.
Second, unless the LED light is marked "dimmable", don't try to use it on a dimmer. You may damage the dimmer, light, or both. Even if the light is dimmable, some dimmers will not work well with a low load: a dimmer that works on a 100W light bulb may not work on an equivalent-light-output 13W LED. They make LED/CFL specific dimmers that may work better.
As for the 130V R40, that is probably a "long life" bulb. Running an incandescent at lower than rated voltage extends its life. Therefore, they make 130V bulbs to run longer on 120V. Just use LEDs rated for 120V.
As for your existing florescent lighting, I assume you're talking about the straight tube type. For a fixture that old, it's probably less efficient that newer florescent fixtures or LEDs but still much more efficient than incandescent. This is harder to replace with LEDs, just due to the area covered. There are LED tubes made to replace florescent tubes but they are still expensive and generally require re-wiring the fixture. These are most often used in commercial applications.
Here's a photo of the bulb in question:
I have that same bulb and when used in a shade that hides the bulb itself, it does radiate similarly to an incandescent. The bulb has an array of small LED's around the edge that light up the thicker ridge of plastic, it essentially looks like a bright tube of evenly lit light, so the light radiates in all directions. However, the thinner plastic in the middle isn't lit. Since the entire ring is lit starting from the bottom of the bulb and the ring is wider than the base, some light is radiated downwards, but like a traditional bulb, more of the light ends up going upwards since the base blocks some of the downward lighting pattern.
This unusual shape can be visible in a lamp with a translucent shade or in a fixture where the bulb is exposed. In a lamp with a traditional paper (or paper-like) shade that is nearly opaque, this type of bulb has a very even light distribution.
Here's the light at a low dim level, showing the LED's around the ring:
![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/0HoQx.png)
But when the light is at full power, they all blend together and project light evenly, lighting up the entire "tube".
I tried these bulbs in a bathroom fixture, but discovered that the translucent shade on the fixture was transparent enough that the bulb shape was quite visible, so I replaced them with more traditional looking LED bulbs.
Since the floor lamp you're using has the bulb above eye level, as long as the shade is sufficiently frosted to prevent the bulb shape from showing through, it should work well.
![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dwIu2.png)
Best Answer
I'm not sure "hollowing out" makes any sense. Start by just not completely screwing in the bulbs you don't want lit (or leaving them out entirely). As bulbs burn out, you can switch to using the dead bulbs as your placeholders.