My current oven just plugs into a big outlet in the wall. It's a giant three-pronged outlet. But all I need to do to get the oven to work (when it works) is to plug it into the outlet. I am now ordering a new oven online, since the old one has broken. They offer an installation service, but money is tight and I don't want to buy it if not necessary. I have people to help me lift the oven if it's just about lifting the oven, and people to take away the old oven. But will there be electrical issues to deal with, or will the new oven just have a plug and plug into the wall like the old one?
Electrical – How to Install a Free-standing Electric Oven Range
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You could try to replace the thermostat if you can find a suitable replacement. But there may be a very low-tech solution. If the oven temp is consistently 100 higher across the entire range of the oven knob, you can either repaint the knob to shift all the numbers over or you can paint an indicator arrow on the oven surface next to the knob but shifted over. So, for example, you can set the knob to 250 then paint an indicator next to the knob at 350. The drawback to this is that someone who is unfamiliar with your oven may be confused and could leave the oven on when they think they are turning it off. To solve that problem, paint a separate set of indicators on both the knob and the oven surface to positively indicate when the ofen is off.
- As gbulmer pointed out, the plug is wired incorrectly.
- That plug is damaged, I would replace it.
- Trim back any damaged wire (with burnt insulation) and make sure the earth wire has the most slack (so it is disconnected last if the cable is pulled out of the plug).
- A typical electric hob ring can need 1.7 kW. Two of those would overload a 13A circuit.
- I would check the rating of the electric range. High current appliances of that sort are normally connected directly to a dedicated 20A or 32A circuit using a switched wiring box, not plugged into a normal ring-main using a normal 13A plug. If the 13A fuse is overheating or blowing it suggests the range is overloading the socket. I would consult an electrician.
In my home, I have a 32A circuit that feeds the separate electric oven and electric hob (4 rings) - each is connected through a switch as shown above (one labelled "hob", the other "oven"). Your "range" probably needs a dedicated circuit and isolating switch.
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Best Answer
In most cases when you purchase a free-standing electric range, you'll be required to purchase the appliance cord separately. The sales person should ask if you need a 3 or 4 prong cord, at the time of purchase.
NEC Article 250.140 Frames of Ranges and Clothes Dryers. requires 4 prong receptacles and appliance cords to be used in new installations, but allows 3 prong receptacles to be used if the following conditions are met.
1) The supply circuit is 120/240-volt, single-phase, 3-wire; or 208Y/120-volt derived from a 3-phase, 4-wire, wye-connected system.
This will almost always be true in a residential setting.
(2) The grounded conductor is not smaller than 10 AWG copper or 8 AWG aluminum.
It's not likely your wire will not meet this condition (unless it's really old).
(3) The grounded conductor is insulated, or the grounded conductor is uninsulated and part of a Type SE service entrance cable and the branch circuit originates at the service equipment.
Again, the supply cable will almost always meet this condition in residential.
(4) Grounding contacts of receptacles furnished as part of the equipment are bonded to the equipment.
This just means that if there are receptacles on the range (I havn't seen this in many years), they must be bonded to the chassis (which should have been done by the manufacturer).
Plugging in a new electric range will not require the circuit to be brought up to current codes, so you should have no problem using a 3 prong appliance cord (in most situations).
It's a good idea to get somebody that has some experience with electrical work to install the cord, since improper installation can lead to injury, fire, and death. The basic idea is that you don't want to restrict conductivity in any way, so you'll want to make sure the terminals are tightened to the proper torque (a conductive paste is sometimes applied to insure adequate conductivity).
While you may be tempted to save a few bucks using the old appliance cord, this is usually not the best idea. Over time the cord may become brittle or develop corrosion, which can both lead to increased resistance, which leads to excess heat buildup, which leads to failure and/or fire. It's not worth the risk, spend the ~$20.00.
Make sure you read the manual before installing the range, and follow any and all manufacture instructions.