Electrical – Is a grounded/neutral wire (not grounding wire) required to be run to a subpanel that will supply only 240V (2-pole) devices

Your book is faulty -- 404.2(C) may not have required neutrals at bathroom light switches at one point in time, but it certainly does in the current (2014) NEC!

C) Switches Controlling Lighting Loads. The grounded circuit conductor for the controlled lighting circuit shall be provided at the location where switches control lighting loads that are supplied by a grounded general-purpose branch circuit for other than the following:

(4) Where a switch does not serve a habitable room or bathroom

1. Right
2. Right. At the subpanel, the neutral and grounding blocks should remain separate.
3. Now is not the time to skimp. 60A looks OK for now, but if you add a 30A dust collector, you've run out of capacity. If you add any lights, 120V receptacles, etc to that subpanel, you're limiting yourself even more. 100A panels are not much more expensive than 60A. Related to this, get a physically bigger panel than you think you need, too. Your plan calls for 8 spaces, but I'd go with at least 16, maybe 20 or 21 or 22, depending on what's available from the manufacturer. Again, bigger panels are cheap now, and they give you a lot more flexibility in the future.
4. As this answer indicates, you'll want #1 Cu or #1/0 Al for 100A, unless everything is temperature rated for 75C in which case #3 Cu or #1 Al would work.
5. This is not only OK, this is the correct and safe way to do it. See this answer or this question and its answers or this one for an explanation of why. The gist is that, with the neutral and ground bonded together at both the main panel and subpanel, any ground fault would energize anything that is grounded.
6. Same as above.
7. Sounds reasonable.