Electrical – Is it OK to run 12-3 cable to a ceiling fan from a switch that’s wired with 12-2

ceiling-fanelectricalwiring

I'm installing a ceiling fan into a room that has no existing ceiling mount (no light or ceiling fan previously existed). I've got a ceiling fan mount in place with a supporting brace that can support the weight of the fan. I will ground the ceiling fan box with the run back to the breaker box.

While I'd like to be able to operate the light on the fan, and the fan itself separately, it's not an end requirement.

In my switch outlet box, I have a 12-2 cable on a 15A breaker.

Here are the two configurations I thought were possible.

Single Switch Configuration

One switch would operate both the light and the fan.

My plan was to connect the 12-2 hot (black) to the top of the switch, then connect both 12-3 hots (red & black) to the bottom of the switch. I'd then directly connect the 12-2 neutral (white) with the 12-3 neutral (white) in a wire nut. Finally, I'd crimp the 12-2 ground with the 12-3 ground.

Double Switch Configuration

Two switches. One would operate light. Other would operate the fan.

My plan would be to twist the 12-2 hot (black) feed from the breaker box in a wire nut with two pieces of 12 gauge (black). One of these pieces would then feed into the top of the light switch while the other one of these pieces would feed into the fan switch. At the light switch, I would connect the 12-3 (red) hot. At the fan switch, I would connect the 12-3 (black) hot. Again, I'd twist the neutral (white) together in a wire nut, and I'd crimp the 12-2 ground with the 12-3 ground.

Questions

  1. Are none, one, or both of these configurations safe?
  2. Is there a better alternative that doesn't involve a new 12-3 run back to the breaker box.

Best Answer

Either is fine.

I'm a little concerned with what you mean for the the "crimp" grounds in both cases. So long as it's an approved connection method, fine (I finally gave up and bought the overpriced green wirenuts.)

Given that you want separate switching, and have the wire to support it, separate switching would be preferable.

You also need to be sure that the switch box is large enough.

1 ground (they only count once) 2 yokes (unless you use a 1-yoke double switch) at 2 each, 2 wires in, 3 wires out (clamp in box or exterior?)

1+2+2+2+3 = 10x 2.25 (12 Ga) = 22.5 cubic inches (or 24.75 with clamps in the box) for the two switches on 2 yokes configuration. Larger is fine.