afcielectricalelectrical-panelgfci
I'm deciding if I should upgrade my main panel, and one of the input I want to understand is how different is this panel from modern code requirement. From the photos below, is it possible to tell if these breakers are GFCI / AFCI compatible? Besides that, are there anything else I should consider for safety?
Some surge protectors work by "redirecting" surges to the equipment ground, which is pretty much the definition of a ground fault. In this case, it's definitely possible that surge suppressors could be tripping GFCI receptacles/breakers (given a large enough surge).
As for the AFCIs... When electrical contacts separate, they often create an arc between the contacts. This arc spans the gap until the contacts are too far apart, and the arc can no longer be sustained. It's possible (in theory) that the GFCI tripping could create a large enough arc, for long enough to cause the AFCI to trip. It's not likely that a properly functioning GFCI would do this, but if the GFCI was old and worn it could be opening the contacts slow enough that a detectable arc is being produced.
Determining if the GFCI tripping is causing the AFCI to trip, is a simple test. Simply press the test button on the GFCI. If the AFCI trips, you'll have figured out half the problem. If the ACFI does not trip, you could repeat the test using a receptacle tester with a GFCI test function.
If it's determined that the GFCI is causing the AFCI breaker to trip, replacing the GFCI receptacle may resolve that part of the issue.
Figuring out if the surge suppressor is tripping the GFCI, is a more difficult proposition. It will likely require you to monitor the supply voltage over some time, to identify and document possible surges.
If the breaker has the same "Type" letter markings on it as are listed on the panelboard label, you're fine. Number suffixes on the type marking (such as QAF2 vs QAF and MP-AT2 vs MP-AT) are used to denote a revised type of breaker that is still compatible with the original and can be used in place of it, so they don't matter in your case.
The Siemens/Murray line of breakers comes in three interrupting rating options -- 10kAIC, 22kAIC, and 65kAIC. The larger options are more costly due to extra internal equipment needed to break bigger arcs, and are only necessary in commercial work where larger services and feeders capable of higher fault currents are found.
In addition, in a main breaker panelboard such as yours, a breaker with a lower rating can be used because it receives a higher series rating by way of being "backed up" by the panelboard's heftier main breaker.
Best Answer
First, none of you current breakers are GFCI or AFCI. If they were, they would have a "Test" button.
Second, you will not be able to fit enough AFCI/GFCI breakers in your panel, even if the panel can take them. This is because your panel is full of tandem (half-width) breakers and there are, to my knowledge, no current AFCI or GFCI breakers in that form-factor. The internal electronics takes up too much space.
If you want to update your breakers, you will have to replace your panel with a larger one.
Edit: as Harper noted in his answer, the other option is to add a new subpanel fed off of the current panel and move most or all of the circuits to the new subpanel. The advantage is that the sub can be installed safely by turning off the main in the existing panel. Replacing the panel would require your power company come and pull the meter to allow the existing panel to be replaced, at a higher cost. (This assumes you do not have a disconnect breaker at the meter. If you do, the advantage disappears.)