applianceselectrical
We have a fairly new dryer and we are in the process of getting kitchen and laundry remodeled. The electrician put in a three prong outlet with all prongs straight. The dryer has one of them L shaped, so it won't go. What does this mean? Did he put in the wrong outlet, or is our dryer goofy?
EDIT: Here's the inside of the outlet. There exists both ground and white/neutral. The white unused. It looks to be an easy fix. Also showing a picture of the dryer. Ground connection is available.
Sometimes when ceiling boxes are roughed in, they use x/3 with ground cable so that they can supply 1 switched hot, 1 neural, 1 hot/switched hot, and 1 ground to the ceiling box.
This allows a ceiling fan to be installed in such a way that the fan can be controlled either by a separate switch, or using only the attached pull chain. In this situation the red wire in the cable is usually disconnected and capped at both ends, and is only intended to be connected as needed.
You may be able to verify this by opening the switch box, and verifying the wiring at the switch. If this is the case and the extra hot wire is not needed, it should be disconnected and capped at both ends. Once that's complete, you can move on to determining if you have a proper grounding conductor.
If the building was renovated/built in 2008, it's not likely the circuit does not include an ground conductor. However, there are multiple ways to satisfy the grounding conductor requirement according to NEC 2008 250.118.
The most accurate way to verify whether or not there a proper ground connected, would be to check for continuity between the junction box and the grounding electrode system. In most situations this is not an option, so another test must be performed.
To run this test you'll either have to be within reach of; or be able to run a lead to, the grounding bus in the main service panel.
If the meter beeps or gives a reading close to 0, the box and the load center are electrically connected. This means there is a proper grounding conductor installed. If the meter does not beep or has a reading of infinity, the box and the load center are not electrically connected. You'll have to install an approved grounding conductor throughout this circuit, if you want proper grounding.
If you have a known good ground nearby (from another circuit, for example), you can use this ground to test for an equipment ground at the box in question.
If the meter beeps or gives a reading close to 0, the box and the known good ground are electrically connected. This means there is a proper grounding conductor installed. If the meter does not beep or has a reading of infinity, the box and the known good ground are not electrically connected. You'll have to install an approved grounding conductor throughout this circuit, if you want proper grounding.
If neither of these options are available, the next best option is to check for continuity between the box and the circuits grounded conductor (neutral). These two conductors should be electrically connected (bonded) at the main service panel, so checking continuity between them can (usually) determine if there is an equipment ground.
WARNING: This method relies on the circuit being installed correctly. If the grounded conductor (neutral) is (incorrectly) connected to the grounding conductor anywhere along the circuit, this test may give invalid results.
If the meter beeps or gives a reading close to 0, the box and the grounded conductor (neutral) are electrically connected. This means there may be a proper grounding conductor installed. If the meter does not beep or has a reading of infinity, the box and the grounded conductor (neutral) are not electrically connected. You'll have to install an approved grounding conductor throughout this circuit, if you want proper grounding.
NOTE:
All continuity testing should be carried out while the circuit is dead. Shut off power to the circuit at the breaker before working on the circuit, and verify the circuit is off using a non-contact voltage tester.
Electricity is dangerous and can lead to property damage, injury, and death. If you do not feel comfortable working with electricity, please contact a qualified Electrician.
The best thing to do is replace the defective wiring. Disconnect the load side of the GFCI and at all downstream junctions. Then check for neutral/ground continuity on each segment of the wiring. Once you locate the segment that shows continuity, search for a short location inside the junction box, and failing that, replace that part of the circuit.
Short of that, depending on your situation, you may not need to wire the following outlets to the GFCI load (e.g. if they are not in the bathroom). You could pigtail the load connection to the line side of the GFCI so that the downstream devices are not protected. If they need protection, they can each have their own GFCI installed, again, only wiring to the line side of the GFCI.
Best Answer
You have an obsolete, dangerous NEMA 10-50
It's a member of the NEMA 10 family which has been outlawed for 30 years because it has a very dangerous failure mode. If anything goes wrong with the neutral wire, the chassis of the range/dryer becomes energized!
In a remodel you are required to come up to current Codes. No electrician would ever install a 10-30 (let alone a 10-50!) as it would be instantly written up by the inspector.
However it should be easy enough to change the recep to NEMA 14-30. Just get a thing that looks just like that, but is a 14-30 instead. Here are the three 30A styles.
The left one is correct for a dryer.
You must change the dryer cord according to the dryer's instructions (search the web). An essential part of this is removing a "grounding strap" which attaches the dryer chassis to neutral (which was bad).