National Electrical Code is pretty clear on this, at least as of the 2014 version. It says that if the fixture is above the tub or shower, and within 8 ft. vertically from the top of the bathtub rim or shower threshold, the fixture must be rated for damp locations. If the fixture may be subject to shower spray, it has to be rated for wet locations.
If it were me, I'd install a fixture rated for wet locations, just to be on the safe side.
National Electrical Code 2014
Chapter 4 Equipment for General Use
Article 410 Luminaires, Lampholders, and Lamps
II. Luminaire Locations
410.10 Luminaires in Specific Locations.
(D) Bathtub and Shower Areas. No parts of cord-connected
luminaires, chain-, cable-, or cord-suspended luminaires,
lighting track, pendants, or ceiling-suspended
(paddle) fans shall be located within a zone measured
900 mm (3 ft) horizontally and 2.5 m (8 ft) vertically from
the top of the bathtub rim or shower stall threshold. This
zone is all encompassing and includes the space directly
over the tub or shower stall. Luminaires located within the
actual outside dimension of the bathtub or shower to a
height of 2.5 m (8 ft) vertically from the top of the bathtub
rim or shower threshold shall be marked for damp locations,
or marked for wet locations where subject to shower
spray.
NOTE: This code seems to go back as far as the 2008 version of NEC. So as long as your jurisdiction has adopted at least NEC 2008, you should be fine.
You should have no trouble finding fixtures; and/or trim, that is rated for wet locations. In almost all cases, the fixture or trim will be sealed to prevent water intrusion. A quick search through Home Depot's inventory, turned up this item for example.
6 in. White Recessed Lighting Reflector Shower Trim with Frosted Glass Lens
I'm sure you'll find them in all different styles, colors, and from many different manufacturers.
The track and the housing are apparently separate components, judging by the photo. The question is how well they're fastened together. I'll be surprised if anyone knows that particular fixture well enough to tell you offhand.
I wouldn't hesitate to investigate. Disconnect power and start disassembling. Use a rotary grinder if necessary to remove rivets, screw tips, or sheet metal tabs.
Best Answer
I have a basement room with almost the exact dimensions. You walk in the basement from stairs and basement starts in almost a corner (3/4 basement) and then you walk almost the width of the house and it is about 14 feet wide. I have 4 cans right when you get in the basement on one switch by basement door and then a square zone of 4 in the back of the room on a dual switch (dimmed and turned off and on from the first corner and then the complete other side of the room which is a small hallway) and then another zone of 4 in the front with the same dual switch set up.
Is 12 too many in the area. Considering that I am using 65W bulbs... no. With all 12 on at once the basement is well lit. If I take one bulb out from any light, there is some dead space. Also my basement has fully drywalled white ceilings and a bright light grey for the walls. If I had any sort of texture or darker colors then less light.
Would I have gone less? No way. Honestly I don't want to have to buy lamps and stuff for your basement. I also like to be able to see things. When it is lit, it doesn't feel like a basement at all. Everything has a dimmer and the 12 lights are split three ways so I don't ever feel like I have extra lights either. I could have gone 16 easy too (2 more on the back two zones). So my answer is 12-16.
Also you have to think how the room will be used. I have 4 at entrance which is on the most, then 4 by TV which is on the least (or if it is on it is really dim), and 4 by sitting area which is used when people are reading or doing homework.
If you are doing this yourself both the cost and time are minimal to add extras. An extra pot light is $20, 30 mins, plus a minor amount of time when drywalling.