I replaced an old chandelier (worked fine before removed) with a new chandelier. Also, I replaced the toggle wall switch with a Luton 1000 Watt Dimmer Switch because my light has 18 rods extended from the ball of the light that requires 18 40 watt bulbs. In the ceiling I have 2 neutral white wires, 2 black hot wires and 2 grounds. The light switch has 1 neutral/1 black/1 ground wire. The lights will not turn on or off by the switch. My home was built in 1957 but has some updated wiring. I've tried capping off white/white, black/black and the ground but with no success. Please help!
Electrical – My dining room light will not turn on or off by the wall switch
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It sounds like you're poking around in the wrong hole. The circuit you describe looks something like this...
Which obviously is not possible, since you say the light is on. More likely, the switch does not control the light at all, and the circuit looks more like this...
It's possible (as previously mentioned) that the switch actually controls a receptacle, or some other device. In which case the ceiling box is probably wired directly to the circuit, and is intended for a fixture with a built-in switch (pull chain).
If the breaker isn't tripping (all your bedrooms are not losing power, just the light on the fan), it's not the breaker being overloaded.
How is this wired? Is the "dimmer switch" controlling just the lights on the fan, or is it the older fan's speed control? Or perhaps if I ask "How do {or did, with the old fan} you turn on the lights alone, fan alone, or both?" - is there a wall switch or speed control for the fan, and a separate wall switch for the lights, or does one wall switch (dimmer?) turn on the fan/light and then you select if the lights are on by a pull-switch on the fan? You have a remote control now - that would probably affect the way things should be wired.
Why do I ask all this? The only way I can imagine that you're causing something to overload with 120 watts of light bulb is is if you've got the fan motor attached to the dimmer, which is almost certainly not right...either the "dimmer" is a fan speed control, probably sized for the previous fan motor (did it have lights?) or it's only supposed to be attached to the lights, if it is a dimmer.
A dimmer won't work right as a fan speed control, and a fan speed control won't work right as a dimmer, and if both the motor and lights are attached to either one, it would not work.
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Best Answer
Based on the information you gave, one white/black pair in the ceiling box is the incoming power, and the other white/black pair goes to the switch. You need to determine which pair is which. Connect the chandelier to one pair and turn the breaker back on. If the chandelier lights up, that's the incoming power, and the other pair should be the switch. If you have a continuity tester, you can hook it up to what should be the switched pair (with the breaker off again) and verify that you have continuity when the white and black wires going to the dimmer are touched together. Turning the dimmer on and off may not be enough to get a reading on the tester - the wires need to be touching.
Once the pairs are identified as incoming and switched, the ceiling box should be wired as follows. Connect the incoming white wire to the white wire of the chandelier. The incoming black wire should be connected to the switch black wire, and the switch white wire should connect to the black wire of the lamp. You should also wrap black electrical tape around the white switch wire since it is playing the role of a black wire. This "marks" the wire as black for anyone looking at it later. The same should be done for the white wire at the switch. It should not matter how the wires are connected to the dimmer.
Edit: Now that I search for an image, this appears to be a possible duplicate of: How to properly wire a ceiling light fixture? Which has some handy diagrams. I suspect what you have is the first picture, and what you need is the second picture: