Electrical – No Junction Box for Ceiling Light

A sawzall should make quick work of this. If you don't have one and know no one that does, they can be rented. There are also handles that clamp onto hacksaw blades so you sort of have a small, manual sawzall. It will take some work, but you will be able to cut enough that the remainder can be twisted off or chiseled aside.

If done carefully and methodically, a dremel tool can do much of the work without starting a fire. Try to direct the cut so that the sparks are ejected mostly downwards. Stop often and check the area for signs of burning. Have a spray bottle handy to quench any embers, as well as a fire extinguisher just to be safe. When finished cutting, spritz the area with water and check the area frequently for the next hour for any signs of embers developing.

Finally, depending on the finish, cutting and patching the ceiling is not that big a deal, then you can ensure the new box is properly supported instead of relying on the little tabs of the old work box and ceiling material for support.

Accessible is a somewhat relative concept. You need to fully remove a recessed fixture from a ceiling to access the connections. This is a bit more difficult than pulling a switch to get at the wires, or even dropping a canopy style fixture, but it does meet the criteria of accessible.

But one of the main rationales for the rule seems to be to ensure a troubleshooter knows where all the connection are, that none are truly buried in the walls where they can't be found.

I don't know if the code has considered your solution, but it sounds like the box you are suggesting is buried, even though it is attached to the recessed fixture. In a sense, you are modifying the fixture in a way not contemplated by the manufacturer. But it might pass muster with some inspectors since it sounds like the junction would be accessible if you removed the can.

There is another way that might suit. The code now allows for certain in-wall splices that can be buried, such as these.

The old wire is inserted into one section of the device, clamped, and screwed in. A new wire is inserted into the other. The halves then snap together and the resultant splice can be buried in a ceiling or wall. If feasible, the completed clamp should be attached to a framing member, but I don't think the code requires it if the wire is left in an unaccessible area.

You could attach this splice to your old wire and run a short extension to your can.

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