It is extremely unlikely that all three receptacles all have bad grounds. Not impossible, but unlikely.
The most likely scenario is that your home was built before grounding became required by code (1962, plus however long it took for your state/municipality to adopt it), and then someone renovating after that time put in 14/2 Romex with a bare ground for the outlets, but then found that the supply wire from the panel didn't have a ground and didn't bother to replace that wire. So, the ground is either shorted to the neutral or left open.
The other likely scenario is that there is a discontinuity in the ground between these three outlets and the supply wire. The necessary wires exist, but whoever last messed with your home's electrical didn't connect them properly.
An outlet tester, and a more thorough inspection of the wiring, can tell you. Head to Home Depot, Lowe's, Ace, whatever, and pick up a 3-prong GFCI outlet tester:
Plug it into all of the outlets on each receptacle; ideally, you should see the two amber lamps light, but that's unlikely if the surge protector doesn't detect a proper ground path. What's more likely is that you'll see only the middle lamp light, indicating an "open ground".
Unfortunately, because the neutral and ground are supposed to be continuous (they both tie directly to the neutral bus strip in the service panel), there isn't a really good way to detect a neutral-to-ground short or swap without opening up all the outlet boxes; a 3-lamp tester will read "correct", and a multimeter will read continuity between neutral and ground no matter whether they're correct, swapped or shorted. However, this scenario is very unlikely in your case, as the surge protector should read "grounded" if the ground pin has continuity.
With the symptoms confirmed (hopefully), turn off the breaker (or pull the fuse) for this circuit, and open up all the outlet boxes. Verify that all of the wire bundles coming into each of the outlet boxes have a bare ground wire, which is twisted together with any other bare wires in the box, and is also connected to the outlet's grounding terminal (it is also acceptable, if the outlet box is metal, for the wires to be screwed into the box itself; the outlet will then be grounded through its chassis and the mounting screws. If the box is a resin or thermoplastic, the ground screw of the outlet chassis must be used).
If that doesn't indicate the cause of the problem, you will need to determine which of the various wire bundles is fed directly fro the panel. This is generally done by disconnecting all the black wires from all the outlets, then turning the power back on and VERY CAREFULLY probing each one with a non-contact voltage tester, like this:
The black wire that lights up is the one fed most directly from the panel; however, it may not be the actual wire run from the panel itself, as there could be something further "upstream". The usual culprit is the switch for the lights, especially in older homes (newer NEC code encourages lights and outlets to be on different circuits, by encouraging calculation of demand load based on separate lighting and appliance branch components, so you're not fumbling around in the dark if your hair dryer shorts out). If your NCVT lights up on anything else that you know is "dead" when the power to this circuit is off, turn the circuit back off and pull those things out of their boxes to inspect those wires. Check for the existence of ground wires, whether they're properly continuous with all other grounds, and with all black wires disconnected, whether any black wire still lights up with the power on.
If the trunk that seems to be the main power feed does have a ground, use a multimeter to measure the ohms between the neutral (white) and bare (ground). It should be zero. If it isn't, the ground is probably not properly connected to the neutral bus strip at the panel; this is where you call in a qualified electrician, because the rails in a fusebox or breaker panel can kill you instantly with one wrong move. If the ground doesn't exist in that supply wire, that's the problem; you'll need to run a new length of grounded Romex to the panel, or alternately run a green-jacketed ground wire to another box with a known good ground (I THINK this is acceptable; an electrician can verify). Understand that if you have a fusebox and the electrician has to open it up, he may insist on replacing it with a breaker panel in order to bring everything he's touching up to current code.
This is not about grounding, or perhaps it is...
Lets start with your connectors: Do you have AC-connectors at your devices with or without grounding pin? Laptop psu may have a protective earth connection, a phone charger won't have one. I've never seen a phone charger with protective earth connection.
Both PSUs are doubly insulated, I'm pretty sure, which means primary side is galvanically separated from secondary side, which includes everything which can be touched with bare hands.
How does this sensation of 50 Hz AC come over to touchable parts? There's something calle Y-Capacitor between primary and secondary side in these PSUs. It is used to provides a stable potential for the regulating circuitry of the PSU, i.e. it prevents the secondary side from "floating". It can be described by two small capacitors in series between neutral lead and live lead on primary side with the middle node connected to the ground of the secondary side. Hence, on a 230V system, the secondary side gets a level of 115 V AC. The capacitor is designed to permit a maximum current of 0,35 mA to flow, if shorted to ground. This is a current you can sense, but which cannot harm you or your equipment.
If something with earthing in your mansion was wrong, it would not change this effect in my opinion.
In the rare case, your PSUs really have a protective earth connector you should not be able to sense that voltage as it was conducted away. In this rare case you should get an electrician soon, because if you touch your oven or washing machine there is no such limiting capacitor to protect you in case of an failure.
I have a different theory why you feel somthing you do not know at home. On canary islands it is rather warm and carpets are rare while most homes have tiled floor. If you live somewhere cold the rest of the year you probably have carpets or wooden floor which reduce capacitive coupling by orders of magnitude. You just may not feel the phenomenon while it is there, too.
Update
Relating to your updates: Now you do have a problem.
When you feel a tickling sensation when touching devices like a washing machine there is one possible conclusion: the potential of protective earth connected with the housing of your devices differs from the potential of your house. Which can mean different things.
- You have only 2-wire conduits in your house. The neutral and protective earth in your wall outlets are connected to one common wire (usually blue in EU). Some connections in your house have too high ohmic resistance. When under heavy load, voltage on N and PE rises, hence you can feel the influenced voltage.
- Protective Earth is somewhere broken, effectively. This is really bad, as all Class 1 equipment relies on working PE and a short to housing, which especially water bearing devices are prone to, will put the full voltage to touchable parts of the defective devices.
- And if PE is interrupted at the equipotential bus bar it gets even worse. Not only a faulty potential from one defective device will propagate through your complete building and be present on every Schuko (PE contact), but will also be induced by assymetric load in the 3-phase-network between the next transformer station and your house. Which means, even if all devices in your house are depowered properly, PE-conductors may conduct harmful voltages.
For the last two options, your life is at risk. You should get an electrician to prove me wrong. The first possibility can be verified by opening a wall outlet (of course after opening the circuit breaker, securing it against reconnecting, verifying all pins in the outlet are deenergised and so on). If there are two wires only and one of them connects to N and PE you have a “bootleg ground”, which renders even ground fault interruptors partially useless.
Best Answer
The house is not a potential death trap at every water fixture. The house is a potential death trap at the stove.
Improving the grounding of the pipes is worse than useless. The only thing to do to keep your friend alive is to immediately stop using the stove and unplug it until it can be made safe to use, or replaced altogether.
A qualified electrician or appliance repairman may be able to repair it or properly ground it, but the labor cost may exceed that of a new stove.