I want to install an outlet for outdoor connection of an RV. However, the location of the service entrance box is close to a inside corner of the exterior of the house so the easiest location is on the same external wall as the service box and will require a hole through the brick wall near the service entrance entry conduit. The outlet would have to be in close quarters since the wall is only about 2 feet wide so the entrance conduit goes perpendicular at the center of the wall plus other wires and entries are in the same area. I want to run the outlet wire out through the brick about half way between the conduit and the corner directly into an external surface mounted box with a 120 volt outdoor circuit for utility purposes on a separate wire passed through the same conduit through the 220 box to the 120 box.
Is there anything questionable or incorrect about that installation method, or something I should be concerned about with it?
Electrical – Outdoor 50 amp 4-wire Outlet Install
electricalinstallationreceptacle
Related Solutions
Electrical code requires that all junctions be accessible in a box, so you definitely need one here. You have two choices (that I know of at least):
- cut a large hole in your siding and mount a retrofit light box into the wall cavity.
- drill a small hole in your siding and mount one a weatherproof box on the outside:
The exterior boxes come in a range of depths and colors so you should be able to find one you like.
Cable
The cable you're looking for is Type UF, or Underground Feeder cable.
It can be purchased at big orange, and big blue, by the foot. It's available in 6/2, 6/2 with ground, 6/3, and 6/3 with ground, and is rated for direct burial.
Attachment to Service
There is one temporary, and two permanent ways to supply power to a park trailer.
Temporary
Power-Supply Cord
You'll want to use a NEMA 14-50 receptacle, and 4 wire cord with NEMA 14-50 plug to connect the trailer to the service. The trailer's electrical grounding will be through the service plug, so only the distribution panel will have to be grounded.
Permanent
Mast Weatherhead
You can use four continuously insulated, color-coded feeder conductors strung from a mast to a weatherhead as a permanent feeder.
Raceway
A metal raceway, rigid nonmetallic conduit, or liquidtight flexible nonmetallic conduit, from the disconnecting means to a junction box on the underside of the trailer can serve as a pathway to run permanently attached feeders.
NEC
For reference, park trailers are covered in article 552 of the National Electrical Code.
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Best Answer
You're on the right track
Since you have a suitable panel, and enough spare space in it, I would go for what you describe, using 3 6AWG wires for the 50A/240V circuit and 2 12AWG wires for the 120V circuit (as well as a 10AWG ground, if you're in plastic conduit that is). You'll want to use a GFCI breaker at the panel for the outdoor 120V circuit, by the way, as that keeps it safe from the weather, vs a GFCI receptacle outside which can get affected by water that leaks into the receptacle box.
If you're going to do this using cables, then you can use 8/3 on a 40A circuit or 6/3 on a 50A circuit for the 240V receptacle, with a 12/2 extending into the 240V receptacle's box and spliced there to some 12/2 UF or two 12AWG THWNs in conduit to connect to the 120V receptacle.