See this little tab here?
![Receptacle with tab in place](https://i.stack.imgur.com/T8YwQ.jpg)
Turn the power to this box off at the circuit breaker, and verify it's off. Then grab the little tab with a pair of needle nose pliers, and bend it back and forth until it breaks off. Once you restore power, half of the receptacle will be controlled by the switch, while the other will be always on.
A couple other notes about your wiring
When wrapping wires around screw terminals, you always want to wrap them clockwise. To tighten the screw you'll turn it clockwise, if the wire is wrapped clockwise it will be "pulled in" by the tightening action. If the wire is wrapped anticlockwise, the wire could be "pushed out" by the tightening action.
![Anticlockwise wrapped wire](https://i.stack.imgur.com/JHSMV.jpg)
You'll also want to try and avoid getting insulation under the screw terminals. The insulation can prevent you from tightening the screw enough, which can lead to a poor connection. A poor connection causes higher resistance, which increase heating, which leads to deterioration of the wiring, which leads to higher resistance, which leads to more heat, which leads to fire.
![Insulation under screw terminal](https://i.stack.imgur.com/h7cqh.jpg)
Normally the wire colors in cable distinguish the wires in the cable and absolutely do not indicate wire function.
However in your case there appears to be a happy accident. It looks like every white wire is neutral, every black wire is always-hot, and every red wire is switched-hot. Even happier, these are the preferred color codes for those functions.
That makes this super easy.
- You don't want to use switched-hot anywhere in the photographed areas, so simply cap it off on both ends.
- You will not be using the switch.
- The always-hots get connected to each other and also to everywhere always-hots go, i.e. Brass screws on receptacles.
- Neutrals likewise (silver screws).
Next time, a couple things. First don't take everything apart like this. Remove only the wires which were attached to the device, and take pix first. I get the impulse, but we call this "trying to learn electrical by dismantling your house". Won't work, it is very inefficient and will give swiss cheese knowledge (as will Google) - instead, get a book on home electrical and read it cover to cover for a well-rounded primer on the subject.
You got lucky, but this can also end at an impasse, having to call an electrician to spend a couple hours sorting/ringing everything out.
Second, stop forcing the screws all the way off. They are captive screws and you are supposed to stop turning them when they get stiff. Often the captive screws hold essential parts of the device (e.g. Screw-and-clamps), but in any case you will gore up the fragile brass female threads so they won't hold well or pass current well. Once you've descrewed a rceptacle, throw it in the trash.
Best Answer
Well, since you already know all about tabs, I don't need to give the usual "what is a tab" orientation. You were on guard, and didn't make the usual mistake.
Except you did this time. This receptacle you just changed was split, with its tab broken off. You need to do that on the new one.
Or instead, you can simply disconnect and cap whichever hot (always or switched) you do not want, but you've already done that so you know the drill.