This is now a year old thread but after reading through the comments on the question, this almost certainly sounds like the building has developed bad wiring that is causing arcing, and constantly tripping the Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters.
The personal appliances may not be directly involved in this, other than completing the circuit, and allowing defective but idle building wiring to expose itself.
AFCIs are supposed to trip over and over until the real problem is fixed, because arc faults due to defective wiring will not go away on their own, and replacing the AFCIs themselves will not fix anything, unless it is in fact the AFCI that is arcing internally.
The building wiring can go bad all by itself even if it was originally installed and inspected properly, if there are external conditions that cause corrosion of the metal inside junction boxes, such as flooding, high building humidity, or exposure to salty ocean spray.
External forces such as earthquakes can also cause loose wiring arc faults due to pulling on wires and loosening of screw lugs and wire nuts, when buildings flex but don't collapse.
Really the solution is for the electrician (or homeowner if the jurisdiction allows it) to check the entire length of each faulting circuit, open the junction boxes from the breaker panel to all the endpoints, and check everything for loose wire nuts or loose screw terminals.
Since wire nut connections cannot be examined installed, they will all need to be removed to examine the wire ends and then retightened. All metal to metal wire contact and the inside of the wire nut should be shiny. Though if you're going through all this, it may make more sense to just replace all wire nuts with new and not bother reusing the old ones.
For push-in spring terminals, the wire end should be released, examined for corrosion or burn marks, reinserted into the spring terminal, and checked for firm anchoring with light tugging.
Outlet sockets and lamp fixtures can also arc inside where the plug or lamp base is inserted.
Check any device plugs for dark burn marks on the blades, or darkened scorch marks on socket faces where the blades go in. Replace both the burned wall sockets and the device plugs, not just one of them or the problem will restart.
Likewise check all lamp sockets for blackened or pitted / welded contacts and replace both the socket and lamp if found, because arcing causes unwanted heating and building fires.
If the problem persists after checking all easily examined junctions and terminals, the arcing can hidden be inside enclosed circuit devices that are not designed to be opened and examined, such as switches and receptacle sockets that are riveted/glued shut, or their hidden internal push-in spring terminals. It may be necessary to replace all of these circuit devices to see if the ACFI tripping finally stops.
Ideally if the circuit tripping occurs when some specific thing happens, this will likely lead you to the quickest resolution, such as "when I turn this room light on/off, the AFCI trips"... so in order of complexity, check the lamp socket, the lamp base, try replacing the sealed light switch with a new one, and then move on to examining all the building wiring end-to-end from the AFCI to the lamp, including in the lamp fixture itself.
Finally, if possible try to locate the cause of the external stress / damage factors, and attempt to prevent or alleviate them.
In some cases the building wiring may need to be changed, such as switching to using watertight and gasketed conduit to protect wiring that corroded due to high humidity exposure.
Wiring strain damage caused by earthquakes and building movement can be reduced by leaving coiled slack in the walls or junction boxes, so that the wiring has room to flex and move without pulling junction or terminal connectors apart.
Wiring and devices that are exposed to frequent vibration, position adjustment, or heating and cooling cycles can also develop loose and arcing connections, and may require design changes or more frequent inspection for damage.
In theory, that sounds great. In reality, maybe not so much. You could be talking about putting a crap-ton of current through the house wiring, and a device in your hand!
Looking at a 20 ampere circuit, where the receptacle is 20' (along the wire) away from the breaker. That's 40' of wire in the wall. According to NEC, 12 AWG wire has a resistance of 0.00193 ohms per foot. Assuming the wiring for the device is 12 AWG, and about a foot in length. That's a total of 41' of wire, at 0.00193 ohms per foot.
Using Ohm's Law, we can calculate the fault current.
I = V/R
I = 120 v / 0.07913 ohms
I = 1,516.492 amperes
That's more than 75 times the rated current of the 20 ampere breaker, so it should be within the instantaneous trip range of the breaker. If the house breaker does not open, you've got 1500 amperes flowing through the house wiring, and a device in your hand. Hopefully the breaker in your device works, and opens the circuit in less than a cycle. Otherwise, that wire is going to get really hot, really fast.
Best Answer
Tenant side
What you need is a plug-in electric meter. It's called a Kill-a-Watt and it costs $20-30. Every time you turn something on, go check the Kill-a-Watt and see what you're pulling. It offers several figures, the one you want is amps.
I gather you don't have a foggy clue how much power various devices draw. You'll get edumacated right quick with this!
As long as the lights are LED, they and the fan will surely draw less than 1 amp together. If they are not LED, make them LED.
Also, if you are paying for this facility, 2 days to reset a breaker is a violation of tenant occupancy laws, and they are violating state law by renting a unit with that problem. Contact the local government and report a fair-housing violation. Such a problem is acceptable (e.g. In a hotel room) when there is competent on-site maintenance capable of dealing with the problem in a sub-1-hour time frame.
Provider side
Now if you are the provider and you are installing this, that's a horse of a different color. I would expect any day now, the inspector to show up, spend the whole day, and have to call down to City Hall for more red tags. However...
You should have a service panel in each unit, and the main breaker in that service panel must be a shunt trip type. These allow "remote" trip of the breaker, or to be more precise, allow electronics to artificially induce a trip. You could use a GFCI breaker and have your electronics induce a ground fault, but a shunt trip will be far more intuitive for users, since it looks like an overload trip not a GFCI trip.
Then, you'll need to build an Arduino style gadget that sits inside the local breaker panel. It has a current transformer (CT) on the incoming power so it knows how much power is being drawn. It has one job: activate the shunt trip before the remote (inaccessible) breaker trips. So it will need to know the trip curve of that breaker.
This won't protect from all situations like a dead short, where it's anyone's guess which breaker will trip first. But in simple "too much stuff plugged in" overloads, it will do the trick.
It would also help to have an ammeter on the service panel, so occupants can see how close they're gettng to trouble.
Also... Don't punish tenants for not knowing what appliances draw... because you don't know yourself. Most people don't. You know how to find out, but you have to look, right?