Electrical – Question about using a wired power strip to the electrical panel in home

get a cheep volt meter and see if ground to neutral is 0 ground to hot is 115-120 and if hot to neutral is 115-120 if ground does not match neutral or there is voltage between ground and neutral there is a problem. I have a outlet that gets 50v between neutral and ground but the other 2 are normal. the electrician who put that in there some how managed to also flip the hot and neutral in the walls so that both breaker side and wall side look like they are wired properly but are reversed. a cheep volt meter is 15-40$. the battery units are pretty decent at telling you there is some kind of problem but not what it is. duno about surge bars though.

Your current plan is no good -- first off, 400.8 point 1 forbids the use of cords as a replacement for permanent wiring (stuffing a cord down a conduit certainly counts, and is also prohibited explicitly by 400.8 point 6). Second, 400.9 prohibits the splicing of cord during installation. Third, wire splices need to be in a junction box so that they can be serviced in the future.

A better plan would be to bring the conduit out to the receptacle box where you plan to tap power, and then stuffing NM through the conduit (yes, this is OK). At the box end, you'd simply tie it into the rest of the wiring as you would ordinarily (using pigtails and wire nuts if they aren't already present there). At the monitor end, you'd attach a field-fittable IEC C13 connector directly to the NM cable and plug it into the monitor (you may need a right angle connector here -- make sure it accepts 14AWG as not all do).

Your other option is to use a recessed receptacle in a junction box mounted at the monitor end of the conduit, and plug the monitor's cord into it. This requires that the cord either be exposed completely, or the monitor be readily removable (i.e. "take a few fasteners off, remove a trim piece, and it comes out", not "oh, we have to tear into the wall to replace this") in order to apply 400.7(A) point 8. It also requires a way to get the cord to the recessed receptacle, considering you can't bury the junction box + receptacle in the wall.

Given that you are dealing with an AC adapter -- the recessed receptacle approach is the superior one (I don't believe you can get the smaller IEC connectors to fit on 14AWG anyway!). The main issue will be finding a pairing of recessed receptacle and shallow box that will fit together while accepting the PVC conduit. I'd start with a P&S P108W as that box is only 1.125" deep, leaving 0.375" for the cable and faceplate, and see what recessed receptacles work with it -- the silly folks at Leviton don't publish a dimensional drawing for the 689-W linked above, so I can't tell from here if it fits or not. (Drilling a 1/2" conduit KO in the above box should be OK btw -- the FS-type boxes that are designed to fit conduit are all too deep for this job.)

Oh, and if you do use the recessed receptacle approach, you'll probably need to finish out the monitor-alcove with some half-inch drywall back-to-back with that plywood backplate, using screws and standoffs to mount the electrical box. (Boxes that stick out from their surroundings are kosher by Code.) Of course, the only way any of this will work is if the cavity in the monitor will fit all of the cabling as well as the transformer and the J-box.