Electrical – Question re: Installing New Power Strip in Kitchen

electricalkitchensreceptacle

In my apartment's kitchen, I have a wall outlet on the wall on one side of the sink, but I'd like to add several more outlets on the other wall, on the other side of the sink.

I don't own this apartment, so it's not like I can start adding more wall outlets, but I'm wondering if there's some way I can add a nice looking GFCI power strip and run the cord along the wall, plugged into the existing wall outlet.

Anyone know the details of how and if this could be done? The only GFCI power strips that I've seen are big, ugly, and industrial. I'm looking for something a little nicer and cleaner (similar to what a normal power strip looks like- but I can't use that since it's near the sink).

Best Answer

You can plug a normal power bar into a GFCI outlet and get the same protection as plugging directly into the GFCI.

If the outlet you'd be plugging into isn't a GFCI, you might negotiate with your landlord to get one.

Or get something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/TRC-90265-6-012-Shockshield-Portable-Protection/dp/B000XVG72G?th=1

Resetting the GFCI

If the GFCI has tripped, it can usually be reset simply by pressing the RESET button. If you press the RESET button and don't feel/hear a click and/or the button doesn't stay in, it means there is a problem and the internal mechanism is not allowing the GFCI to be reset. You can try pressing the TEST button, then pressing the RESET button again making sure you press the RESET button all the way in. If the device still will not reset, you'll have to try and determine the reason.

Why won't a GFCI device reset?

There are three reasons a GFCI device will not reset.

Wiring is wrong

If the GFCI device is not wired properly (LINE and LOAD reversed, hot and neutral reversed, etc.), the device will not allow a reset.

There is a ground-fault

Obviously, if there is a ground fault, the device will trip as soon as you try to reset it.

There is a problem with the device

If the device has gone bad, it will (should) not reset. Some devices will continue to hold, even if there is something wrong internally. However once they trip, they cannot be reset. Other devices will trip as soon as something internal dies, and will not reset. This is why monthly testing is suggested. If you press the TEST button, and then are unable to reset the device. You'll be made aware of a problem sooner, and can have it repaired (hopefully) before any damage is done.

Rewiring a new device

Before you begin, turn off the power at the fuse/breaker box and make sure it's off.

Locate the supply wire pair

There should be an ungrounded (hot) and grounded (neutral) conductor pair (likely as part of a cable assembly), that supplies power to the circuit. As it sounds like you've already located these, I won't go into detail as to how to locate them here (there are many other answers on the site that explain this procedure).

Terminate the supply wire pair

Connect the bare/green grounding conductor to the green grounding screw on the receptacle (and to the box if required), and to any other bare/green grounding conductors.
Connect the (white) grounded (neutral) conductor to the silver colored screw terminal labeled LINE on the device.
Connect the (black) ungrounded (hot) conductor to the brass colored screw terminal labeled LINE on the device.

Terminate load side wires

If there are devices downstream that require GFCI protection, you'll have to connect the wires feeding those devices to the LOAD side terminals on the device.

Connect the bare/green grounding conductor to the grounding conductors in the box.
Connect the (white) grounded (neutral) conductor to the silver screw terminal labeled LOAD on the device.
Connect the (black) ungrounded (hot) conductor to the brass screw terminal labeled LOAD on the device.

Set the device

Once all the wires are connected, install the device in the box using the mounting screws. Install the face plate, and turn the power back on.

Press the RESET button.
- You should have power to both receptacles, and any downstream devices.
Press the TEST button.
- You should no longer have power at the receptacles, or any downstream devices.
Press the RESET button again.
- Power should be restored to the receptacles, and downstream devices.

Power Strip/Extension Cord on TV stand

Most electrical equipment sold in the US, including power strips and surge protectors, are rated by Underwriters' Laboratories (UL) as being safe for normal use in residential settings. Power cords and stirps are intended to be placed on various surfaces without danger. If a power strip were tightly enclosed with no opportunity for ventilation, this might create an unsafe situation. Obviously, overloading a power strip or outlet is risky.

Your suggestion of placing a cord or power strip on a TV stand and using it to supply less than the rated amperage is well within the intended uses and should pose no risk.

Extension cords and power strips are not intended to permamently replace properly located outlets. However, many power strip approved by UL include mounting holes on the back for attaching to walls or carts. If this is carefully done, is not likely to be damaged or too tightly enclosed and is not overloaded, it should pose no problem.

It is possible that local laws or building or lease rules may limit some uses.