Electrical – Remote for pool light switch

There are many different solutions depending on how much you'd want to spend, how much DIY you want to do, and what exactly you are trying to achieve. I would not try to directly switch this load: inductive loads generate voltage spikes when switching them, which can damage electronics and such that are not designed to handle it. They also have high in-rush startup currents which are beyond the normal ratings.

On the cheapest, very DIY side, I would use a definite purpose contactor for each pump (~$20, give or take), and run some smaller (14/2) wires inside to a switch.

The benefit here is the wiring going inside is low-current, and so you can use a regular lightswitch, count-down timer or programmable timer.

Insteon is another way to go. Insteon is a power-line carrier signal, which means it runs over your existing wiring. They have a high-current relay module which would be used to control your pumps.

You can then control from any Insteon-capable controller: there are a number of keypads, light switches, timers, home automation controllers, key chain remotes, motion sensors, and PC interfaces. The benefit of this is your "remote" can be anywhere (and you can even have multiple remotes). For example, here is a 6-button keypad that would work:

You could have a timer/controller set up to run your pump at certain times of day, or have a motion sensor that runs it if someone is in the pool area, or a button to manually trigger it. With a controller you can do very complex things, like have it run if someone is in the pool area for more than 30 minutes, or if it's manually triggered, and also ensure that regardless of that, it runs for at least 4 hours every day. Heck you can go crazy fancy and have it run more after it rains, or after it's particularly windy (to get leaves out).

I've linked to smarthome.com (who is the manufacturer of Insteon) but you can also buy their stuff from many other places, including Amazon.com.

There are equivalents to Insteon in other technologies (both wireless and power-line carrier) such as Z-Wave, UPB and X10 (though X10 is very poor technology, I would recommend staying with something newer).

You can also combine. For example, there is a UPB dry-contact output which you could wire up to a definite purpose contactor.

What you propose is indeed possible. How difficult it is, depends on what wiring is currently in place.

You should start by connecting all the bare/green grounding conductors in the switch box together, including a pigtail to both switches. Other than that, it sounds like the wiring in the switch box is good to go.

If you want to control the fan with a wall fan control, you can install that in place of the fan toggle switch.

In the ceiling box, you'll likely find the 12/3 cable from the switch box. If the existing fixture uses a remote module, you'll likely find that either the black or red wire from the 12/3 cable is simply capped off. You'll see the black/red, white and ground wire connect to the remote module. The remote module should connect to the fixture with a black, blue, white, and bare/green wire.

If you want to remove the remote module, you should disconnect it from all the wiring. Once disconnected, you can remove the module, or cap off all the wires and leave the module in place.

To control the fan using only the wall switches.

• Connect the white wire from the ceiling to the white wire from the fixture.
• Connect the bare/green wire from the ceiling to the bare/green wire from the fixture. If the box is metal, include a pigtail to the box.
• Connect the red wire from the ceiling to the blue wire from the fixture.
• Connect the black wire from the ceiling to the black wire from the fixture.

Now the switch connected to the red wire, should turn the light on/off. The switch connected to the black wire, should turn the fan on/off (and optionally adjust the speed).