So, after some further fooling, I rewired it again as I did the first time (with a pigtail going from the neutrals to the silver terminal), the hot line in going to the top right black terminal, and the load going to the bottom right brass terminal. I turned on the breaker and again, the pilot light is on 100% of the time, whether the switch is in the on or off position.
So, I then swapped the hot line in, and the hot load out, and turned back on the breaker, and it now works properly. So, it looks like the directions are SORT OF correct, but Leviton put the line in where the load out should be, and vice versa. Basically what they say should be connected to the black screw should be on brass, and brass should be on black (still a DIYer, I never know the proper names for these things). I hope this helps someone else who buys this same switch.
It depends on which side of the switch is the line (power source from the box) and which side is the load (light and outlets).
If the two wire cable is the line and the three wire is the load, you may be able to use the red wire to carry uninterupted power to the outlets. The next question is whether the light or the outlets come next in the circuit, and whether that red wire shows up in their respective boxes.
If the outlet is next and the red wire is also capped in that box, you can use the red to power the outlets while still switching the light. Connect the incoming black line wire, the exiting red wire and add a black pigtail (a short length of wire). Then connect the other end of the pigtail to the switch where the incoming black wire was previousl.
At the outlet box, remove the incoming black wire going to the outlet and replace it with the incoming red wire. Attach the incoming black wire (that is now free) to the black wire going to the light. This may be attached to the far side of the outlet. If so, disconnect it from the outlet first.
If the light is next in line, this will only work if there are both black and red red wires going to the light fixture box. In that case, remove the outgoing black wire (going from the light to the distant outlets) and attach that outgoing black to the incoming red. Leave the incoming black on the light fixture.
If the red wire does not show up in the next connection box, you are out of luck unless you add additional wiring.
In sum, you need two hot wires leaving the switch box, a black one that is switched and a red one that is always hot. You are trying to keep the switched black connected to the light fixture and the unswitched red powering the outlet. (The colors are arbitrary, but since the red is not currently in use, we have designated it always hot).
Best Answer
You have a single pole switch
It is wired in a way that lacks quality workmanship, to save a moment's time, and a wirenut
The top backstab (i like that much better than push-in) is connected electrically to the top screw. The backstab has almost no contact surface area, and this is the reason that they are frowned upon.
So rather than making a pig-tail to but under the screw, they just used both attachment points.
Any device that is rated at 20 amps must allow for 12 gauge wire, and I have never seen a 15 amp device that will not take 12 gauge.
Take the 2 Black wires together with a 6" or so piece of 'spare' 12 gauge Black wire, and put a red or yellow wirenut on the 3 wires. The other end of the short wire will connect to the top screw on the switch. The Red wire moves from the bottom of the old switch to the bottom screw on the new one.
I have been wondering who has been turning on and off my light - so stop flipping the switch, thanks