electrical
I accidentally pulled a powerpoint out of the wall when I unplugged an appliance.
Looking at Bunnings there seems to be 2 choices. 10amp or 15amp.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/deta-double-power-point_p4430414
https://www.bunnings.com.au/deta-15a-double-power-point_p4430422
What is the difference? Can I get either? When would I use one over the other?
This is Australia by the way.
Put your computers on a UPS, even a small one. Just protecting yourself from short power outages will save you a bunch of downtime. Even if you resolve your overload issue, this is still worth it.
Most computer users today can get by with a laptop that's under $500, giving you built-in battery backup & portability in a compact, low-power package. Plug it in to your keyboard, mouse, and monitor the same as your desktop today, so your work experience doesn't change.
The power strip you linked to (http://www.cyberpowersystems.com/products/surge-protectors/home-surge/6050S.html?selectedTabId=specifications&imageI=#tab-box) doesn't appear to have a breaker. I think that whoever wrote that was just confused about what it means to be rated for 15A.
If your coffee maker and space heater are in the same location, you could plug them into mutually exclusive switched outlets. You'll need:
A steel square box, and an appropriate face plate
A regular duplex receptacle. 15A or 20A can work
a 3-way switch
cable
plug (15A or 20A, to match the recep)
fittings
Snap off the tab on the hot side of the recep, then run short leads from those 2 screws to the 3-way switch. This will let the switch choose one socket or the other. Plug in the heater on one and the coffee maker on the other. Now it's easy to make sure only one is in use at a time.
(Later I will add some pictures and other details. If anyone has pointers to the correct fittings and cable, please comment.)
Is the 10amp chocbloc sufficient for the load of 5* 42w halogen lights?
Yes, 5 x 42 W = 210 W, 210 W / 240 V = 0.875 A
Is the 'manual' twist of 5*neutral 'blue' cabling from each arm safe twisted into a single 10amp chocblok connector?
Five is a lot. I'm surprised the fitting didn't provide a better way to unite them. The main issue is ensuring that the connection is tight and that enough of all wires are clamped under the screw. If in doubt you can use multi-way connectors such as Wago push-fit or lever-clamp connectors which have a separate position for each wire.
Can I increase the risk by double insulating say the single Brown arm combine to live supply?
I'm sure you mean decrease the risk but I don't understand what you mean by double insulating.
For general lighting applications there isn't any need to apply insulating tape so long as everything is done correctly.
The live and neutral wires are adequately insulated and you shouldn't trim more than the minimum insulation needed to fully insert the wires into the connector. After doing so, there should be no exposed copper, the screw heads in the connector are protected by the plastic within which they are recessed, there should be no danger of metal to metal contact.
Any metalwork in the light fitting that can conceivably come into contact with people should be connected to protective earth.
Best Answer
Earthing pin is taller. This is a way of keying the receptacle so a 10A or 15A load can plug into a 15A receptacle, but a 15A load (tall earth) cannot plug into a 10A receptacle.
North America does exactly the same with NEMA 5-15 and 5-20 and 6-15 and 6-20, just more obviously (which helps users understand why it won't fit).
And it's probably the same thing: it means the cabling behind the receptacle is either the thinner cable that saves money, or the thicker cable with higher current rating installed at extra cost. With a different size overcurrent device (breaker) for each to protect the wires.