First off, I make no warranty of any of these suggestions. Especially if this is actually a bank...
I would be hesitant to completely rely on an all-electronic solution, since if there is a failure (which, frankly, is likely with a budget of only 200 per lock), you don't want to have to resort to a plasma torch or something to cut open (and destroy) the door to get in.
What seems like an interesting option to me though would be some of the RF-controlled keyless locks on the market. These look like a normal deadbolt, but have an RF remote.
What would be needed in whatever is chosen is the ability to hook into it, specifically, you need two things:
- The ability to remotely control lock/unlock
- The ability to sense if it's locked or unlocked
I'm going to assume that you have some type of microcontroller running the rest of this setup. You didn't specify.. but presumably you have something that has some I/O on it, the ability to connect it to the locks, and some software running to handle what I describe below. I'll also assume that you have an alarm and monitoring.
To control the lock, ideally, you could hardwire in to it, and be able to apply a signal to lock/unlock all the deadbolts. Less ideally, you could hack apart the remotes, and have your controller effectively press the buttons on the remote(s) to lock/unlock. This adds unreliability since you're dependent on an RF signal.
Since these are keyed locks, you have a nice backup mechanism if everything fails: use the 4 keys to open the locks (and note, you'd need to be sure they're 4 separate keys).
Of course, since they're keyed locks, they're also susceptible to being picked/bumped. To try and combat that, what you can do is have your controller monitor each lock individually. If any of the locks ever open when the controller didn't tell them to, then it should trigger an immediate alarm (consider: someone is likely to pick/bump one at a time). If this is an exterior door, then this is your first line of defence, unfortunately. If it's an interior door, then you should also have motion and other door sensors that will hopefully trigger before someone gets to this door.
You also need to consider all other aspects of physical security. You're only as secure as the weakest point, so if someone can break through a window or wall or vent then it doesn't matter how good the door is. Physical security is also just a matter of time: eventually, you can get through anything. That's why I suggested having an alarm system connected, which is both a deterrent, and triggers a police/whatever response. Consider: safes, even high-end ones, are rated by the time it takes to crack them: your door will be no different. Having video cameras probably helps as well, both as a deterrent and to help catch people afterwards. Your video and security system also need to be protected, so that they can't just be disabled/destroyed.
On the other hand, too much security and you actually can attract attention. I've heard that the houses with extra locks, security cameras, etc, are often targeted by thieves since they look like they have something valuable worth protecting.
Furniture movers are glides that slip under the feet of furniture or appliances to allow then to slide.
The hard plastic slides on rugs and the fuzzy covers slide on hard floors.
You can slip a pair of these under the front of your unit and, if you can, under the back legs as well. If not, tilt the unit slightly forward and pull. This is best done with two people.
These stackables are usually placed one at a time, but the upper unit clips into the lower fairly firmly. There is often a screw connection. If there is not room to get behind to disconnect the upper, better to pull them out as a unit. Almost always the lines (water, power, gas, vent) are long enough to get the unit free of the closet and to then reach behind it, but check as you go, using a mirror if need be.
Best Answer
It's very possible it's more than 1A. As a very simplistic example, if the batteries it were using had 2000mAH in them, then it means they could supply 4A for 0.5 hours, and I'd say a half-hour of continuous use from a drill like this is being pretty generous.
It won't hurt to get a bigger supply: as far as current goes, the motor will just pull what it needs. If you don't have one you can use/scavange for free though, I think you'll probably find it's cheaper just to buy a 120V drill: as you increase in current, the power supply will get a lot bigger and more expensive (note: there is a reason wired drills use 120V AC motors, and don't switch to DC).
Save the motor/gears, maybe you can use it for some other project, but from a cost perspective, it's just not economical to fix something like this.