First off. The only way to provide proper "grounding", is to install a grounding conductor from the panel to each outlet. Providing AFCI and GFCI protection to the circuits is helpful, but these devices will not provide "grounding".
If you switch from 2-prong receptacles to 3-prong on these circuits, you should not connect anything to the grounding screw of the receptacles. You should also (technically) install labels at each outlet that read "GFCI protection" and "No Equipment Ground". Though, these labels aren't common in residential situations.
- Replace GFCI breakers with CAFCI breakers and add GFCI receptacles to the first-outlet on each circuit.
This is probably going to be your best bet. In this scenario, the CAFCI breaker provides protection to the entire circuit. The GFCI protection being at the first outlet, means that while the wiring from the panel to this location is not protected, the rest of the circuit is protected.
- Keep GFCI breakers and add AFCI receptacles to the first-outlet on each circuit.
This isn't a terrible option, although the AFCI device will not be protecting the wiring between the panel and the device. Also note that an AFCI device only detects line to ground arcs (parallel arcs), while a CAFCI device detects both line to ground and line to line arcs (parallel and series arcs).
- Replace GFCI breakers with Dual Function AFCI/GFCI breakers.
If you could actually find these (and could afford them), this would probably be your best course of action. Unfortunately, these devices probably don't exists (yet) from most manufacturers.
It's difficult to tell from the photo if there's even a grounding conductor run along with the two ungrounded (hot) conductors, so you'll have to verify that before you go shopping for supplies. You'll also have to verify that the ungrounded (hot) conductors are the proper size. You said the panel is fed through a 60 ampere breaker, so you'll need at least 6 AWG copper conductors (solid or stranded, it makes no difference).
Shopping
Here's what you're going to need.
- A grounding bus bar.
- 6 AWG copper THWN wire with white or gray insulation, long enough to reach from the main grounded (neutral) bar to second panel grounded (neutral) bar.
- 6 AWG bare or green copper conductor, long enough to reach from the main grounding bar to the second panel grounding bar (which you'll install).
If the current ungrounded (hot) conductors are undersized, you have a couple choices. You can replace them, with appropriate conductors. Or you can install a smaller feeder breaker in the main panel, and down size the grounded and grounding conductors accordingly.
Installation
Once you have the supplies, here's what you're going to do.
- Remove the brass bonding screw from the existing bus bar in the second panel.
- Install the grounding bus bar (the one you purchased), in the panel.
- Move all the grounding conductors from the old grounding bus, to the new grounding bus bar.
- Pull the required conductors between the panels.
- Connect the grounded (neutral) conductor to the grounded (neutral) bar in the main panel.
- Connect the grounding conductor to the grounding bar in the main panel.
- Connect the grounded (neutral) conductor to the grounded (neutral) bar in the second panel.
- Connect the grounding conductor to the new grounding bar in the second panel.
- Connect the grounded (neutral) pigtail from the GFCI breaker, to the grounded (neutral) bar in the second panel.
Now you should be all set.
NOTE: Depending on where the second panel is installed. You may need to install a grounding electrode, and bond the panel to it. Check with your local building department, to determine if this is required.
Best Answer
Yes, a GFCI sub-panel with AFCI breakers sounds like an excellent way to do that. It avoids the European problem of having the whole house GFCI (RCBO) trip and ruin a refrigerator full of food and freeze pipes (though some European furnaces don't require electricity).
I don't see a problem daisy-chaining since they are different protections. I also like having the arc-fault protection more local than the ground-fault. The GFCI doesn't care, but the AFCI does, because it is literally listening to electrical noise, and it's easier to "hear" when fewer things are talking.
The only thing you need to watch is that your large, full-panel GFCI has the sensitivity that is legally required for bathroom and kitchen circuits. Some of the Euro-style whole-house RCBOs have 20-30ma thresholds, which is not sensitive enough by far.