I ended up pulling the capacitor and testing it with my ohm meter. It was dead. I could have easily gone to the local HVAC supply, purchased a new capacitor for $30 and installed it myself. But, because I also wanted to have the pressure tested, I called in the guy who installed my furnace. He affirmed that I "did good", it was the capacitor. And because I had done most of the diagnostic work, he cut me a good deal.
In the end, the most important bit, on a 95 degree day when the humidity is 70%, a happy wife is a blissful life. ;)
Comparing those tables: Note that the speed switch in the circuit you show isn't using L.
A: L+2+3
B: L+1+3
C: L+1 (Maybe this is L+1+2 ???)
D: L+1+2+3
0: No connection (or no connection to anything but L)
1: 2+1 (possibly plus a connection to L)
2: 1+2+3 (possibly plus a connection to L)
3: 2+3 (possibly plus a connection to L)
Making them correspond with each other...
C is obviously equivalent to 0.
D is obviously equivalent to 2.
That leaves us with
A: L+2+3
B: L+1+3
1: 2+1 (possibly plus a connection to L)
3: 2+3 (possibly plus a connection to L)
We can make those match if we relabel the connections. If we just swap the labels on your terminals 3 and 2, then
A is equivalent to 3
B is equivalent to 1
If we renumbered them all (your 2 is their 3, your 3 is their 1, your 1 is their 2), then
A is equivalent to 1
B is equivalent to 3
Pick whichever you prefer; one will switch off-high-medium-low-off, and the other will switch off-low-medium-high-off.
As far as theory goes: I'm not sure either, but let's see what I can do with it.
3 (2->3) appears to be "slow" because power flows through the right half of the bottom coil, and then through the side coil, in series. More resistance, less current flow, less power.
1 (2->1) appears to be "fast" because the left side of the bottom coil, and the side coil, are powered in parallel. Both get the full house-current voltage applied across them rather than the reduced amount of power they got in series.
2 (2->1 and 3) is the tricky one. I am far from certain, so DON'T take my word for it. But I think what's happening here is that, since the middle and right sides of the bottom coil (1 and 3) are now connected to each other, that loop has a current induced in it by the motor's moving magnets, which creates a countering magnetic field, which acts as a magnetic brake to slow the motor... so fast with a bit of braking equals medium. Seems like an odd solution, but if I'm remembering my freshman Physics at all correctly it might actually be a reasonably efficient solution.
You might want to run this by the physics discussion, to get someone with more recent memory of electrodynamics to check and/or correct that last paragraph.
Gopher baroque...
Best Answer
The problem was because the RPM of the new motor was different. So it burned out quickly. Make sure to use the same RPM motor apart from the HP and Amp of the motor. It really makes the difference. the AC guy now installed the same RPM motor and it works great.