I am going through some basic electrical stuff in a house that had some pro and some amateur work done. Some of the things I've been working on (e.g. light switches) have been wired correctly (breaking the hot wire only) but the ground wire was simply cut short at the romex and remained unused. I assume this was done because the switch had no ground screw.
However, it seems to me that the ground should remain intact–maybe wire-nutted to the other ground wire(s). Your thoughts? Thank you.
Electrical – Where should the ground wire go at a light switch with no ground screw
electrical
Related Solutions
Without being able to see the cables as they enter the cabinet; or the ability to touch or trace them, here is what I assume is going on.
Definitions:
Grounded (neutral) from the service
A typical single split phase service is made up of 3 wires. Two ungrounded (hot) conductors, and one grounded (neutral) conductor. The ungrounded (hot) conductors will connect to the main service panel through a disconnect (usually a large breaker), while the grounded (neutral) connects to the neutral lug. The neutral lug will be bonded (electrically connected) to the neutral bus bar, and all grounded (neutral) branch circuit conductors will terminate at the neutral bus.
Grounding Electrode Conductor
This conductor is used to connect the grounding electrode (ground rod, etc.), to the grounding bus in the panel. All equipment grounding conductors will be connected to this bus.
Bonding Jumper
The bonding jumper is used to bond (electrically connect), the un-energized metal parts of the panel to the grounding system.
Assumption:
Since it appears that (what I assume is) the grounding electrode conductor terminates at the neutral bus, I'm also assuming that this is the main service disconnect. This leads me to believe that the neutral and grounding buses are bonded (electrically connected). In which case, technically, grounded (neutral) branch circuit conductors can terminate at the grounding bus.
So you have two options:
Terminate the grounded (neutral) from the new circuit to the grounding bus.
Move the green wire that is terminated on the neutral bus, to the grounding bus. Then terminate the grounded (neutral) from the new circuit, to the freed up slot on the neutral bus.
Additional Information and Code Compliance:
Number of Conductors
Since this is a new circuit, it has to be installed to current code standards.
National Electrical Code 2011
ARTICLE 250 — GROUNDING AND BONDING
VI. Equipment Grounding and Equipment Grounding Conductors
250.140 Frames of Ranges and Clothes Dryers. Frames of electric ranges, wall-mounted ovens, counter-mounted cooking units, clothes dryers, and outlet or junction boxes that are part of the circuit for these appliances shall be connected to the equipment grounding conductor in the manner specified by 250.134 or 250.138.
Which in this case means installing a NEMA 14 receptacle for the dryer, and a proper grounding conductor.
You'll have to follow the dryer manufacturers installation instructions for upgrading to a 4 wire cord. For more information see this answer, and this answer.
Since you've said that you're already using 4 wire cable, you'll simply have to terminate the grounding conductor in the cable to the grounding bus in the service panel. Then connect the other end of the grounding conductor to the grounding terminal in the dryer receptacle.
Size of Conductors
You'll also want to be sure that you're using the proper size breaker and conductors. In the case of a dryer, you'll typically use a 30 ampere breaker and 10 AWG conductors (depending on the length of the run). However, you'll want to check the dryer manufacturers installation instructions to verify this.
That is tar from the old insulation, that's why it is sticky. I don't know why or how it happens, but old insulation had tar in the paper, and it is very common.
It is not scorching or melting from overheating.
Take a utility knife and try to gently scrape some of the black away. You should see it's just on the surface. It's nothing to worry about.
Related Topic
- Electrical – Testing 3-wire receptacles indicates no ground even though 12/2 w/ground wire is connected
- Electrical – Replacing old switch with 2 red wires
- Electrical – Two white, two black, two ground, and red wire in ceiling box connected to switch
- Electrical – Part 2 Another Question Regarding the Correct Wiring Involving a Light Switch and an Outlet
- Electrical – Light Fixture Junction Box with Remote Switch
- Electrical – use the ground wire as a neutral for an outlet
- Electrical – Cooktop wiring (stranded alu + copper) w/ downdraft
- Electrical – Replaced motion sensor light switch; extra red wire in wall
Best Answer
If you have a metal box then it should be grounded. That has been in the NEC forever. Since 2008 or 2011 (can't remember) light switches have been required to be grounded but if your house was built before that then you are not required to bring it up to code. It is grandfathered, otherwise all homeowners would have to make changes every time the code changes.
However, it is never a bad thing to bring things up to current code if you want. And yes if you have multiple ground wires in a box they should all be connected together.
Happy Day!