Electrical – Which Kitchen outlets do NOT need GFCI

First things first, here's a link to Leviton's 7299 combination switch & GFCI instruction sheet. For a tamper proof it will be a T7299. The only reason I give Leviton is because I know the part number. Hubbell, GE or Cooper are just as good and make the same.

GFCI protection for both outlets.

Follow the instructions that come with the GFCI. There are leads for the switch and lugs for the GFCI and also the feedthru-protection of another receptacle.

No GFCI outlet behind the dishwasher (for easy resetting without dishwasher removal).

This is accomplished by feeding the dishwasher receptacle using the GFCI feedthru-protection lugs.

The switch only toggling the garbage disposal outlet and not the dishwasher outlet.

This is accomplished by using the leads on the combo switch & GFCI to feed the garbage disposal.

Am I going to need to run some more wire through the walls?

If there are no wires between the combo switch & GFCI then you will have to pull some romex between the two.

Should I investigate adding a GFCI breaker for that circuit?

The breaker will cost a lot more than the combo switch & GFCI. Also, if the GFCI trips then you have to go to the breaker to reset it. At least with the GFCI receptacle feeding your dishwasher receptacle, you will be closer.

What other solutions would achieve the same effect as listed above?

I think this is the way to go, so you don't have to pull your dishwasher out to reset the GFCI. The nice thing about this site is some of the people either can think out of the box or have faced this problem before.

Answers in order:

1) If the kitchen was done properly in the 90's you definitely should have GFI protection, at least near the sink(s). If not then yes, you cetainly can install a GFI at the head of the circuit and protect downstream standard receptacles. Keep in mind, only receptacles serving countertop areas require GFI protection.

2) IF the house is that old GFI protection was likely not required at the time of original installation. You can if you like add it at any time, and it's the same situation as the kitchen. Downstream protection is fine.

3) See answer #2. I doubt there is a need for an actual GFI device behind the freezer.

4) Again, same goes. You can just use one GFI at the beginning. As for how many, there is no limit, but each downstream device does have a tiny bit of current leakage, so limiting them to 5-6 is a good idea.

Remember, to gain downstream protection, the incoming line must be on the LINE terminals, and the line to be protected must be on the LOAD terminals.