I have in ground site lights at my facility. It is a HYDREL manufactured site light and I have six of them in the ground. Only 1 out of 6 of them light up. I've changed out the ballasts, bulb sockets and have the correct wattage. Unfortunately they are still not receiving power. I have checked the wiring at the base, and there's no power going through them either. I checked the breakers and contactors and it is reading power.
Is there anything I might have missed? I would appreciate any advice please
Electrical – Why aren’t the in-ground lights receiving power
electricalwiring
Related Solutions
This sounds like one of the traveler wires failed open. To troubleshoot:
- Turn the circuit off, of course!
- Take a continuity tester, and attach a long piece of wire (as long as the stairs) to one of the probes.
- Attach the other end of the long piece of wire to one of the travelers (black wires) at the upstairs box.
- Probe the black wires in the downstairs box with your continuity tester -- one of them should have continuity.
- Repeat steps 3 and 4 for the other traveler in the upstairs box.
Once you verify that it's a broken traveler...you can either:
- Reuse an intact white wire between the two switches as a traveler by disconnecting it from the neutral junctions at both ends and rewire it in place of the faulty traveler and tagging it black or red with paint or tape at both ends.
- If you don't have two white wires running between the two switch boxes, or if your wiring is in conduit, you'll have to pull new wire for the traveler -- either a new wire through the conduit after fishing out the broken traveler, or a /3 cable of the same type and gauge as the existing cables if there simply isn't a wire to repurpose.
It looks like the Hue system doesn't have any candelabra sized bulbs. I don't see a Hue switch that would let you control the fixture as is. All the Hue system bulbs look large.
There are adapters that will let you use standard bulbs in an e14 socket:
I'm just not sure the bulb will fit in the fixture with the adapter - looks like it may be too small even without the adapter. It might turn out to be easier to change the fixture.
(BTW, if you are in the US, you may want to check that it's really E14 and not E17 intermediate size socket.)
Best Answer
So we know at least one of them is working. Odds are that fixture is the first in the string of the lighting circuit. I am assuming they are all on the same circuit. I am also assuming there is a photocell or timer that turns them on and off. Is there a lighting contactor involved? If not then you need to investigate the one that is working and see if there is a loose or corroded connection there.
If everything looks fine then you need to determine the route of the underground connections. Then by disconnecting the wires at the one light that is working and separate the line side (the one that is hot) from your load side to the next fixture. Twist the load side together. Using a continuity tester or ohmmeter go to the next fixture in the string and see if you can get a ring or a reading. If you can't get continuity then you have a break in the underground connection and it must be replaced or repaired. So make sure all splices are clean and corrosion free.
The hard part is trying to determine the route of the underground conductors. It's usually in some form of a loop. We are taught to use the shortest route possible, if that helps. If you can't figure it out then you will need to continue disconnecting fixtures and ringing between the fixtures to determine the route.
Remember you will be kneeling on damp ground so once you find the line side of the first fixture. Be sure and turn your power off to avoid shock.
Stay safe and good luck.