Electrical – Why would a circuit breaker not trip if I accidentally shorted hot to neutral

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I am installing a set of recessed lights in a closet, replacing the existing fixtures one at a time. I removed power to the lights while installing each one by using the light switch, not the circuit breaker at the box (after verifying that the the switch was wired correctly with the hot side being switched, not the neutral).

I successfully installed the first light, and had just pulled the second one down. I turned the lights back on to see better (since the other fixtures still worked), but didn't notice that the now bare and exposed hot and neutral wires from the fixture I just pulled were touching.

When I turned on the switch, the lights did not come on and you could hear a deep growling noise somewhere in the house, very similar to water hammer noise. I turned off the switch right away, not knowing the cause. I turned on the switch again with the same result. After turning off the switch, I inspected the wiring from the fixture and discovered the short.

As I understand it, the time it takes a breaker to trip is basically inversely proportional to the current draw. A dead short should be VERY high current, and I would have expected the breaker to trip instantly. It did not do so. Questions:

Shouldn't the breaker have tripped?
If so, I can't trust the breaker and should replace it. But, how do I go about testing the other breakers in the box? They are all old… probably original to the 1964 house.
What was that noise?

Best Answer

Does it really need (not should) to be replaced: Is there a lifetime failure count for a breaker? -StackEx

Here's some extra Yahoo answers nonsense, from my attempted search in finding a way to safely make a breaker pop.


The other answers to your question here bring valid concern about replacing a questionable breaker. I'd be more concerned with the condition of the wire, which I believe was the noise (rattling in the pipe). Circuit breakers are pretty good about failing in a safe state, I.e, it just won't work anymore. I wouldn't be so concerned that a monetary/slight (crappy) contact didn't trip the breaker; you did not achieve a dead enough short (see wallyk's). It was not a good thing to have happened (although not the worst) and if you're not going to pull the wire it may be safer to replace the breaker with an arc fault.

THQL1120AF, an arc fault for $50, except it's not a tandem. No good unless it happens to be the one single you have there. aplussupply.com sells standard replacement breakers for your panel. I was unable to find a THQL1120 (AF or GFCI) tandem breaker. FYI, I looked up a 100amp AF for that panel, it's $800...


You could swap that single for a new regular tandem, freeing an entire slot (by taking the other wire from the bad breaker (provided that it was on the same leg originally) for a 1" AF, now hooked to the circuits' questionable wire. Request clarification if you do not understand the importance on which of the legs a breaker is on and how to properly relocate them.

Go big or go home. Meaning, as discussed here, replace that panel or leave it alone as much as possible.