I replaced two GFCI outlets and they are working fine, but two regular outlets on the same wall stopped working and are not receiving electricity. I checked and checked to see if I did the GFCI ones correctly but can't figure out what the problem is.
Electrical – Why would two regular outlets stop working after I replaced GFCI outlets
electricalreceptacle
Related Solutions
Some possibilities:
- it's controlled by a wall switch and you turned off the switch.
- the receptacle is old and worn and no longer making a good connection to the plug. The main symptom of this would be the plug being loose in the socket; it's unlikely to happen suddenly so you might have noticed it beforehand.
- the receptacle was overloaded and got damaged. You might see some visible signs of charring or smoking around the receptacle -- especially if you remove the cover plate and look inside the electrical box -- if this is the case.
- a loose connection in the wiring has finally failed (this might be in a different part of the circuit).
- it's on a completely different circuit from the other receptacles in the room. If you're adding an outlet, the most convenient place to get power from may not be other points in the same room; it could be from an adjacent room's circuit, or even from a different floor in the house.
A non-contact voltage tester will help you find out if you're still getting power to that receptacle. If so, replacing the receptacle will probably fix the problem.
Ground-fault circuit interruption (GFCI) receptacles, are not wired the same as regular duplex receptacles. In a standard duplex receptacle, both receptacles and all terminals are directly connected together (Unless modified). If one half of the receptacle is powered, then the other half is as well. With a GFCI receptacle there are LINE side terminals and LOAD side terminals, which are separated by an internal switching mechanism.
The wires feeding the circuit are connected to the LINE terminals, which supplies power to the device. If everything is wired correctly, there are not ground-faults, and the device is not tripped, then electricity is allowed to flow to the receptacles on the device and to the LOAD terminals. So if everything is functioning as it should, there should be be power at both the LINE and LOAD terminals. However, if the GFCI device is tripped, there will only be power at the LINE terminals.
Resetting the GFCI
If the GFCI has tripped, it can usually be reset simply by pressing the RESET button. If you press the RESET button and don't feel/hear a click and/or the button doesn't stay in, it means there is a problem and the internal mechanism is not allowing the GFCI to be reset. You can try pressing the TEST button, then pressing the RESET button again making sure you press the RESET button all the way in. If the device still will not reset, you'll have to try and determine the reason.
Why won't a GFCI device reset?
There are three reasons a GFCI device will not reset.
Wiring is wrong
If the GFCI device is not wired properly (LINE and LOAD reversed, hot and neutral reversed, etc.), the device will not allow a reset.
There is a ground-fault
Obviously, if there is a ground fault, the device will trip as soon as you try to reset it.
There is a problem with the device
If the device has gone bad, it will (should) not reset. Some devices will continue to hold, even if there is something wrong internally. However once they trip, they cannot be reset. Other devices will trip as soon as something internal dies, and will not reset. This is why monthly testing is suggested. If you press the TEST button, and then are unable to reset the device. You'll be made aware of a problem sooner, and can have it repaired (hopefully) before any damage is done.
Rewiring a new device
Before you begin, turn off the power at the fuse/breaker box and make sure it's off.
Locate the supply wire pair
There should be an ungrounded (hot) and grounded (neutral) conductor pair (likely as part of a cable assembly), that supplies power to the circuit. As it sounds like you've already located these, I won't go into detail as to how to locate them here (there are many other answers on the site that explain this procedure).
Terminate the supply wire pair
- Connect the bare/green grounding conductor to the green grounding screw on the receptacle (and to the box if required), and to any other bare/green grounding conductors.
- Connect the (white) grounded (neutral) conductor to the silver colored screw terminal labeled LINE on the device.
- Connect the (black) ungrounded (hot) conductor to the brass colored screw terminal labeled LINE on the device.
Terminate load side wires
If there are devices downstream that require GFCI protection, you'll have to connect the wires feeding those devices to the LOAD side terminals on the device.
- Connect the bare/green grounding conductor to the grounding conductors in the box.
- Connect the (white) grounded (neutral) conductor to the silver screw terminal labeled LOAD on the device.
- Connect the (black) ungrounded (hot) conductor to the brass screw terminal labeled LOAD on the device.
Set the device
Once all the wires are connected, install the device in the box using the mounting screws. Install the face plate, and turn the power back on.
- Press the RESET button.
- You should have power to both receptacles, and any downstream devices.
- Press the TEST button.
- You should no longer have power at the receptacles, or any downstream devices.
- Press the RESET button again.
- Power should be restored to the receptacles, and downstream devices.
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Best Answer
There are a couple of possibilities for how this could happen, but the simplest theory is that you failed to reconnect the wire feeding those outlets to the LOAD side terminals on the GFCIs. Turn the power off to the kitchen circuits and check in the GFCI-containing boxes for loose/unconnected wires.
If you don't find anything in there, there are three possibilities:
You knocked the wires feeding the outlets out of the boxes during the GFCI replacement. Unfortunately, you'll probably need an electrician to come in and fix your divot for you in this case.
The outlets weren't GFCI protected, and you somehow managed to miss their HOT wire in the box -- perhaps your kitchen is on a multi-wire branch circuit, and the receptacle HOT wires never were connected back in when the GFCIs are replaced?
You interchanged the LOAD and LINE terminals when installing the new GFCIs -- the outlet itself will still function, but not as a GFCI, and it will not pass power "backwards". What happens when you press the TEST button on the GFCI? It should trip if and only if it's wired a semblance of correctly -- and will not trip if reverse-wired as there's no power on the LINE side for it to trip with.
The GFCI itself isn't passing power -- try tripping it manually with the TEST button then resetting it. If everything is indeed wired correctly and it still doesn't pass power when tripped and reset, you have a pair of dud GFCIs on your hands, and it's time to replace 'em.