Since your other circuits are now switched, you have reversed the black wires. You must also eliminate the taped connection. Since your dimmer probably has wire leads instead of screw terminals, this could be easy. The thing to ensure is if you cut the yellow wire back to where it was taped, will it still be long enough? It should be if the dimmer has wire leads. Also ensure there is enough room in the box for all the wires and the new dimmer, as it is larger than a standard switch, it's easier to run out of room.
If it all looks good, first turn off the power to the switch box. Mark the black wire now attached directly to the switch as power. This was originally taped to the yellow wire until you got mixed up. Remove it from the switch and straighten the wire end.
Remove and straighten the other black wire now taped to the yellow. This originally went directly to the switch. This goes to the light you want dimmed. Trim it so the exposed wire is the same length as the wire stripped for the dimmer lead. Attach it to one of the dimmer leads with a wire nut.
Cut the yellow wire back to where it was taped, leaving an appropriate length of exposed wire. Trim the insulation as needed so the new end is free of any insulation. Connect the power wire, the yellow wire, and the free dimmer lead together with another wire nut. Be sure the nut is big enough to accommodate three wires.
Ensure any ground wires are all connected together, but not to any other wiring.
Turn the dimmer up to full power, and turn it off if you can tell the difference. Restore power to the circuit. Turn off the dimmer if it's on. Ensure the other circuits are still powered. Enjoy your now dimmable light.
The red wire that goes to the second light (that is bundled with the rest of the reds at the first light), needs to be connected to the black with red sleeve wire. Since it's currently bundled with the rest of the red (hot) conductors, the light is always getting power. The black wire with a red sleeve is the switched hot lead, and only has power when the switch is on.
Best Answer
Hej!
Jag har sökt samma svar i ett par veckor och blev glad att se bilden du länkat till. Plötsligt slog det mig att ena ledaren kan först fästas på brytarens nedre fäste och den andra på "plattans" fäste som inte "spiken" kommer upp till. "Spiken" kan skruvas fast sist på rätt höjd eftersom det finns en öppning kvar vid det skruvfästet tills man sist skruvar ned själva lamphållarens "rör". Ja du hör ju att det inte är en elektriker som talar, men det blir faktiskt en krets med vippbrytaren som öppnar/sluter som den ska. Jag skruvade ihop den på några minuter. Ska våga prova den och återkommer!
Hälsar Ulf
Yepp, det funkade!
Ulf
In English: One leader attached to the bottom of the switch part and the other leader attached to the part connecting to the lightbulb. The bent "nail" fixated finally to the right hight in the last hole and it can be twisted together. This makes an electric circuit, but I am NOT an electrician by far and will welcome any confirmation that this is the right and secure way to assamble this. I will check with my electric store and return shortly.
Regards Ulf
Yepp, worked like a charm!
Sorry about the Swedish and my poor explanation (in both languages). Stupid as I am I did not think of taking a photo of my first attempt of wiring and since it did turn out to work I am not dismanteling a fully operational light. However I have marked on the photograph provided by the questionaire how it's done.