Equipment ground

Yes, you can add an insulated ground bar in the can (you should be able to get one specifically designed for your particular can, but here's what they look like):

.. and then connect it to the other ground bar using a piece of #4 AWG (solid bare copper, or stranded THHN insulated) assuming you're still at 200 amps. This guarantees that the green bonding screw that's actually bonding your neutral on the other bar will affect both bars if it is removed. It's common to add these for isolated grounds, where they're connected to a different ground altogether instead of the other bar.

Note - the one you buy may come with its own bonding screw, and the appropriate tapped hole to receive it - so check for that prior to connecting the two together (IOW, read the installation notes that came with it).

This is a bigger can of worms than meets the eye. There are huge arguments over all this.

This is a coax grounding block:

This is a grounding bar:

This is a grounding bridge, your cable company or telephone company probably has one on the outside of the house at the electrical service entrance:

What I'd do:

• Run a ground cable from your frame to the grounding bridge. Use the biggest cable that will fit properly in the bridge. Don't use A-D above.
• Install a grounding bar that will handle that wire, at your frame in the basement.
• Run a ground wire from your metal patch panel rack to the grounding bar, use grounding lugs on the rack. Probably not necessary, but use Noalox between the lug and the rack. Remove paint if you want to go all in.
• Install and ground coax grounding blocks for your antenna and CATV service.
• Use good quality surge strips, at the frame and through the house, and check your outlets with a receptacle tester to make sure they have ground wires - surge strips generally don't work without a good ground.
• If any of your equipment has a grounding lug on the back, ground it. (For example, many of the Netgear metal cased switches have a ground lug on them.) AFAIK only necessary on equipment with a two wire power plug.
• Remember, holy wars over all this - some will say this is all totally wrong. This is what I would do though after following all the arguments.

Edit:

There is a good chance your patch panel doesn't ground the coax that goes through the house. However if you use surge strips that have a coax port in those places, and the coax has been terminated properly so the body of the plugs are bonded well to the shiled, and the outlets those surge strips plug into have a good ground, you should be fine.

One last thing - this whole thing hinges on good grounding of your electrical system. If you want to be really careful there, have an electrician check the grounding and bonding and if possible ground resistance. This is IMO worth doing in general.