Fact-check on metal roof quote by roofing company

Any moisture issues related to the standing water incident would have manifested itself long before now. Whatever the current issue is, it's unrelated to the previous issue. In that time, it is possible a new leak developed. It's also possible the dark areas are related to interior humidity and unrelated to the roof. In cold weather, the ceiling surface under rafters is measurably cooler than the nearby portion under insulation alone. This can cause condensation only under the rafters. As you know, condensation can lead to mold.

Can you tell if the darkening is due to actual mold? The damp surface can attract dirt that darkens the area even though no mold is growing. Even though the dirt can stain, attempting to clean an area with plain soap and water would yield a very different result than if mold is actively growing.

If mold is actively growing, it is time to consult with a mold professional. They will determine the cause, mitigate the mold, and suggest how to prevent it from happening again. If you want to investigate further before going that route, the only reliable way to determine if the rafters are getting wet is direct inspection.

Cut a small inspection hole where you think it's the worst. If it's wet up there, a lot more ceiling is coming off, so don't bother patching the hole. The roof is leaking. It needs to be repaired and all wet drywall and insulation needs to be replaced. If it's all dry, breathe a sigh of relief. The need to patch the hole is much less than it could have been. Be sure to adequately seal the damaged vapor barrier.

If the rafters are dry, the only thing you can do to reduce condensation on the ceiling is reduce the overall humidity of the house. First try selective ventilation and lifestyle adjustments. Consider bumping the thermostat up a bit. If that's not enough, look into continuous ventilation through an air to air heat exchanger.

A far as replacing stringers, that cannot be done with comp roofing unless a full cold roof is installed. It is normal practice for concealed structural spaces filled with insulation to not be ventilated. It sounds like the roofers followed conventional building practice.

I work for a metal roofing company, and this is a big area of concern for a lot of homeowners.

Here's what I can say: based on experience and facts.

8-10 years ago, the fasteners on exposed metal roofing were terrible. They failed CONSISTENTLY. There were very few competing fastener companies and rubber washers cracked and leaked like crazy. And when your next best option is a concealed fasten standing seam at twice the price, metal roofing was unpopular. At the time, metal roofing only represented about 2% of the residential market.

Fastforward to present day. There are several large fastener companies and there is a ton of competition for the best performing screw. Our company uses screws with a neoprene washer (already light years better than traditional rubber) that is independent from the screw head allowing overcorrection during install. They also have a slightly larger and slightly domed metal washer stacked on top which creates an umbrella for the neoprene that guards it against the UV rays that cause cracking. We are seeing screws that at this point can live roughly 50 years if not longer without failed washers. Some companies are now even offering screws with oversized heads and washers with military grade strength that are guaranteed for life, even against backing out! This year, in the Southeast, metal roofing saw a rise in popularity to 14% of the residential market, and the majority of it is an exposed fasten system. 2% to 14% in 8 years and we wouldn't have that kind of growth if the roof systems were failing consistenly.

Of course, DO YOUR RESEARCH. Buy from a reputable company that uses good screws and make sure that your installer is experienced with metal.