Yes you can. Every bit helps, though you can eventually reach a point of diminishing returns. You're not there yet :)
I would leave the floor boards to avoid compressing the cellulose. I don't need to tell you to maintain a ventilation path from the soffit vents, but it's worth mentioning. I would also consider building a storage platform for both containers and on which to walk (crawl?) so the ceiling can be fully insulated even under the storage area.
Ventilation
This is basically what you're trying to achieve, with respects to ventilation and insulation of the roof.
Soffit (eave) vents
Start at the bottom of the roof, with soffit vents.
Baffels
Baffels are used to provide a channel along the underside of the roof decking, to allow air to flow from the soffit to the roof vents. You don't necessarily need baffels, but you do want to provide at least one inch of free space under the roof decking. Baffles simply make providing this gap easier.
Roof Vents
You can use either pot vents, or a continuous ridge vent here.
Pot Vents
Ridge Vent
If you don't already have a ridge vent, you'll have to do a bit of work to install one.
- Remove the existing ridge cap shingles.
- Using a circular saw set to the appropriate depth, rip a straight line along both sides of the ridge.
- Install the ridge vent.
- Install ridge cap.
Insulation
Now that you have proper ventilation, it's time to think about keeping the conditioned air in the conditioned space. For this, you'll need insulation. If you used baffles in the previous step, insulating the roof is easy. If not, make sure you maintain a one inch gap below the roof decking while you install the insulation.
You can use whatever type of insulation you'd like, just make sure it will provide the R-value you want in the space available.
Vapor Barrier
Once the insulation is up, you'll want to install a vapor barrier to prevent any indoor moisture from getting up into the insulation. If moisture is allowed to get into the insulation, it could condense and cause mold problems and other water damage such as rot.
You'll want to use polyethylene sheeting, at least 4 mil thick. You're also going to want to seal all seams using house wrap tape, to ensure a good seal.
HVAC
Now that the space is sealed, it's ready to be conditioned. You'll have to install appropriate heating/cooling elements in the space, which completely depends on what type of heating/cooling you have. If you have forced air, don't forget the returns.
Carry the Load
The next item to address, is to make sure you and your stuff don't end up on the floor below. You'll want to make sure the floor of the attic is adequate to support the load. If it's not, you'll have to take steps to beef it up. For this, you might want to contact a structural engineer.
Access
Since you've been getting up and down to do all this work, I'm going to assume you have adequate access to the space. If not, you'll want to install a ladder, stairs, etc.
Best Answer
In Massachusetts, attic floors must support at least 30 lbs/ft² live load (the same as bedroom floors) if the attic is accessed by means of a fixed stairway (780 CMR 5502.3.1). Use a span table to determine the necessary joist dimensions, given their span length, spacing, wood species, and grade. For example, if your floor joists are 2x6 spaced 16 inches o.c., they can then be between 8'5" and 10'11" depending on the wood species and grade (780 CMR Table 5502.3.1(1)).
Uninhabitable attics with limited storage need only support a live load of 20 lbs/ft² (780 CMR Table 5802.4(2)).