Pick up a kit like this from your local hardware store, it will include every thing you need.
Make sure you measure the room and make sure the last row is not going to be a tiny sliver, it is better to start with a thinner first row than get to the end and realize you are going to have a really thin last row.
Also be very careful when tapping the boards together, if you go to far you will chip/crush the board you are butting up to. When tapping the boards together be careful not to let the tapping block slip up, because that too will chip the plank.
Oh and don't forget to remove any baseboards before you start, and then measure again without the base boards.
When buying the underlay material make sure you get some that is made for concrete, you don't want moisture wicking up through the concrete into your new floor.
It's also a good idea to pick up an extra box or two of flooring, it could save you a trip to the store in the middle of the project if you underestimated or damage some of the planks during install. You can always return any unopened boxes when your done.
A miter saw is also very handy.
EDIT:
Be careful when tapping the planks into place, if you don't have weight on the floor or you are not using spacers the whole floor could shift and become crooked (I learned this the hard way). I was about halfway across the room when I realized the planks that I had previously installed were shifted, if I hadn't caught it I would have ended up with a very crooked floor.
Concrete wicks water, so even if the membrane under your screed layer is undamaged, if any moisture gets into that layer it's going to be redistributed as evenly as possible throughout that layer.
What you don't want to do, with a DPM under the screed, is create a moisture trap - which a second DPM would do.
Instead of a membrane, use a foam underlayment material which will keep the wood from touching the screed directly (avoiding any moisture transfer) but which will also allow the screed to breathe and thus dry over time.
Best Answer
The "48 hour" timeline assumes the flooring cartons are laid out to "acclimate", with air only getting above the cartons.
Get air underneath them. Take your first day or two's worth of packages and lean them against a wall so air can access them on both sides. If you want even faster adjustment, bust them out of packages and fan them out individually for a few hours.