I am about to take on a flooring project and I have never done this before. The previous owner did a DIY flooring job and it's horrible. Cracked tiles and chipping grout everywhere. So as I have been told….easy to pull up.
The problem I face is the sub flooring or lack of any solid surface…hence the cracked tiles.
The original tile was laid straight on to the original 1968/1969 builder sub floor. The best way to describe this floor is 1" thick / 2" wide diagonal wood with 1/4" gaps. So if I pull and ceiling tile downstairs I get and face full of mortar that has crept through the gaps. Like I said…..horrible.
So my question is do I lay 3/4" tongue and groove sub flooring followed by 1/4" back board? 3/4" sheets screwed to joists? or just every 6 inches in to my 1×2 planks?
If I do anything asked above I will have a 1 to 1-1/2" threshold difference from the old hardwood to new floor. Kind of a toe stubbing nightmare lurking.
It doesn't have a noticeable bounce. The area is a kitchen so maybe the cabinetry is helping?
Best Answer
Wow sure that floor would bounce. Rip up the old tile and use plywood decking. I can’t remember if you can get 3/4 in t&g but know you can get 1”. Since the strips are not t&g I would want to go thicker if possible. If not use a lot of construction adhesive and screw the plywood down.
Next step is your backer board. (I usually put thinset or mastic under my backer and screw it down.) The more solid your base is the better chance of a long life you have (for your tile). After that you are ready to tile.
The threshold will be angled but that is the only way to do it right. I have dropped a finishing hammer from the ceiling on a 4” tile. I was sure I bullseyed the tile but it was ok. I got lucky but part of that luck came from the base the tile was on. I have repaired tile that a heavy cooking spoon fell from the counter and cracked the tile--it did not have a good base.
Don’t skimp, you should not have an observable flex in the flooring if you want it to last.