I need some advice on attaching a stainless steel t-joint transition strip to my trap door which is in my laundry room. I want to use a strip that is wide enough to cover the cut in my tile. I want a 45-degree cut at the corners, so the strip must be at least an inch wide. Please help!
Flooring – Transition strip for tiled trap door
flooring
Related Solutions
Would a sill extension work for filling the gap at the entry door? Here's the first link I found: http://www.thebuilderssupply.com/Sill-Extensions_c_351.html
And, since you mention that its appearance is secondary, I'll throw out that you might be OK just filling that 1/2" gap with grout. On my first tile job I didn't notice that the edge of my fiberglass tub had a slight belly, and ended up with a gap that went from 1/4" at the middle of the tub (same as my grout spacing), to about 1/2" at the head and foot corners. I filled the gap with grout and it looked surprisingly good. When we moved after about 4 years there was no evidence of any cracking or separation between the tub and the grout; it looked pretty much the same as when I first installed it.
EDIT: Another possibility would be to fill the gap with a length of aluminum bar stock to match the threshold. You could remove the threshold and fasten the bar to its tile-facing edge with countersunk flat head machine screws and nylon-insert locknuts so that the screw heads are hidden in between the tile and the bar. Assuming the cement board is butted right up to the threshold, you'd probably need a 3/8" square bar mounted high on the threshold so it overlaps the cement board.
Yeah, that 4" would be a long cut. It could be done in two passes, one from each side. The middle area would have a bit of an overlap and maybe a blade mark, but that could be sanded down. Plus you are probably going to finish it anyways.
What I would recommend though is changing the shape of your transition piece to make it easier to cut, and would also make it more pleasant to walk ok. I posted a similar question regarding a transition from tile to hardwood. Although your question is different, some of the answers there might help you out. For example, take a look at the shape of this transition piece:
In your case, this would be 3 separate cuts instead of one long one. Also the flat top surface will make it more pleasant to walk on vs. the angle (point) you have at the top of your example.
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Best Answer
Stainless steel will not be a user friendly material to cut. I would suggest using an aluminum angle instead. It is readily available, one leg will be on the floor level to cover the tile edge, the other will go into the opening to allow it to be secured to the framing under the tile floor.