While this will not directly answer your question, I'd like to offer an alternative solution.
Modify Existing Molding
If it were me. I'd get some transition molding, with a profile like this.
![Example molding](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qW88N.png)
I'd then set up my table saw to rip the piece, to remove the angle profile on the back edge.
![Rip Line](https://i.stack.imgur.com/nZ4VG.png)
Which would give me a profile like this.
![Trimmed molding profile](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jvc83.png)
Once I had my molding ripped to size, I'd create a border around the hearth using 45° butt joints.
![Molding frame](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Di1wN.png)
When installing the flooring, I'd stop short of the hearth to compensate for my expansion gap and the thickness of the moldings leg (the piece that hangs down). Once the flooring was installed, I'd install my molding.
![Final Rendering](https://i.stack.imgur.com/TCOyt.jpg)
The molding allows the floor to expand and contract, while also providing an attractive transition between wood and brick.
Note: If you match the molding color to the flooring color, the transition will be less noticeable.
Their install guide says
"Under normal conditions, Harmonics® flooring requires no acclimation
period. Normal conditions are defined as a difference of no more than
25°F and 20% relative humidity between the stocking/transportation
environment of the flooring and the final installation environment of
the flooring. Outside of normal conditions, let the planks acclimate
for 48 hours in the unopened packaging at the normal room temperature
in the middle of the room where the floor is to be installed.Allow air
space between packages"
So looks like you can get installing right away.
Best Answer
You will want a fine tooth blade. The more teeth the better. This will reduce the risk of chipping the laminate surface.