What REALLY works for hanging pictures on old plaster walls–the kind with cement not too far beneath a skim coat of the white stuff (technical term). I bent four nails "specifically designed" to hang pictures on such a structure–even after drilling pilot holes; + broke a drill bit in the process!
Hanging Large Framed Prints on Plaster
hangingplastertools
Related Solutions
I'm assuming you aren't the type of person that would just stick it to the wall using thumbtacks.
The best solution would be to get this print professionally conserved, and then have a reputable frame shop make a custom frame for it.
This process will probably cost in the $500 - $1,000 range including the frame, but depending on the print, it might be worth it.
The conservation process would stabilize the paper, and prevent it from further damage. It would entail flattening out the print, cleaning the dirt with special solvents, and then most likely putting a backing on it and then sticking it into a vacuum press to get all of the bubbles and folds out of it.
Once it has been conserved, a frame shop can walk you through the details of making the frame such as the style of frame, the type and color of matting, the glass, etc. The frame shop will then wire up the frame so it can be hung securely on your wall. At the end, it should look like something that could be easily found in an art gallery.
There are other options such as building the frame, and cutting the mat yourself, but the results won't be anywhere near what it would be if it was professionally made. The tools and supplies would also be expensive. The mat cutter kit alone is $200 or more. It definitely would not be worth investing in those tools yourself unless you plan to frame many other pictures.
I would find a hanger you like along the lines of this one that's deep enough for your bowl:
Then I'd hang it from a screw placed inside or behind your range hood. I'm assuming that it's a sheet metal hood with a hollow underside.
If the bowl is too high, use a decorative chain or rope to connect the top of the hanger with the screw at the desired height.
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Best Answer
The best bet is to find a stud and use a heavy nail or screw.
If that isn't an option for the print's sake, I've had luck in such walls with toggle bolts before. It can be hit or miss with screws and even mollies and screws in tandem because behind the plaster and cement are 3/8" thick by 1 3/8" wide strips of wood spaced 3/8" apart called lath, which is what the gray cement (the "scratch" coat) squishes into when wet and locks into once dry. You'll drill a hole and you might hit wood (lath), or you might hit air, and which you hit will affect a fasteners ability to hold in the hole, and it's often a crap shoot on the first hole or two going in blind. A toggle bolt works well in these walls because the "wings" of the bolt have a good chance of catching the back of at least one strip of lath and hopefully more, no matter where a hole is drilled, giving it a good purchase and a high chance of success on the first try.
Don't even bother with nails in these walls unless your certain you're driving one into a stud. You're liable to break loose burgs of cement and plaster, and yes, bend nails, because the elasticity and memory of the wall across open space is high and the energy of your hammer blow will be mostly directed back at you and the nail itself.
You'll want to use masonry drill bits for any drilling in these walls. The cement beneath the skim coat of plaster will chew up any others almost immediately.