Electrical Panel – Have I Missed Anything in My Plan for a New 240v Circuit?

OK here we go.

1) There is no violation to splice the conductors as long as it is "mechanically and electrically sound". Just remember that the splice is where things can go wrong, and they must be done in a junction box and accessible for maintenance.

2) It is alright to use a junction box for a transition. Just remember that when you are bring the romex out of the box with no conduit, the opening must be bushed. You can use a plastic snap in or a connector or a chase nipple with a lock nut.

3) In this case your are really not using the EMT as a conduit per say, but as a chase for the romex and to prevent damage to it. You can also buy pre manufactured 90's if you need to use them rather than expensing out a bender, and fitting them may be easier for the non skilled. See my remarks on bushing in 2). Also see your own remarks on the 1 1/2 in 2) as far as nail plates go. I prefer the overuse of them than take chances.

4) It's always a good idea to match the breaker with the Panel manufacturer although other manufacturers breakers will match up in certain panels.

5) There is no code requirement to use an AFCI with a range circuit.

Hope this helps, good luck.

Answering your questions in turn:

1. You will be using individual wires in the conduit here -- there's no reason here that merits wrestling a fat, annoying cable down a conduit! All four wires, however, will get pulled through the conduit as a group -- you can suck a string (tie a plastic bag on the end) through the conduit once it's together that you can then use to pull the wires through.

2. You are fine on the neutral here -- a meter for 120/240V split-phase service doesn't need it. Simply nut the line and load neutrals together with a suitable wirenut (or a mechanical screw-terminal splice connector) at this point.

3. Your proposed grounding scheme is also fine given your choice of conduit -- I would suggest running a bare ground wire instead of an insulated one, though, as that saves a bit of space inside the conduit.

4. Since you are running conduit through the studs instead of a cable, you will not need bushings of any sort to run the conduit through holes in the studs. I suggest running the exterior conduit above the window, by the way; that way, you don't have to try to fit a conduit behind your gas meter.

5. You do need to secure the conduit to whatever it is sitting against at 3' intervals, yes. Strapping to every other stud works if you are running against the siding with studs 16" O/C -- for studs 24" O/C, simply attach a conduit strap to each stud, through the siding. If you do decide to attach the conduit to the masonry, use masonry anchors or fasteners for the conduit straps, on 3' spacings.

6. 1" is a suitable size for the run you have planned, but PVC may not be the correct material -- you may prefer EMT instead, although you'll want to transition to LFMC for the compound bend at the garage-end of the outdoor run instead of using conduit bodies for that -- either that, or bend EMT or PVC to fit using a conduit bender.

7. If you're going to do the run over the top of the window, then I'd mount the meter pan so that its bottom edge lines up with the top edge of the window. That means you can simply run the conduit out the knockout on the left side of the meter pan.