I've got one that's doing the ol' dribble for a few minutes after flush. Ran out to the store today to get new seals with the plan of replacing the inlet seals and scraping out the gunk. However, it appears you can't buy just seals any more. Everything is a complete inlet side replacement. With how cheap they are, no surprise, the seals used to cost nearly that much! However, other than a couple that listed very specific toilets they say "fit almost all toilets"… Is this one of those things you just have to buy, try, and throw away if it doesn't fit? Other than carrying the old parts into the store and trying to look at them for comparison, is there a standard?
How compatible are toilet repair parts
toilet
Related Solutions
Make sure the gasket that the flapper rests on is perfectly clean. Any grit or sediment on it can prevent the flapper from making a good seal.
Check the chain that runs from the handle assembly to the flapper. If it's taut when the flapper is down, it may be holding the flapper slightly away from the gasket, again preventing a good seal.
If that doesn't work, it may be time to replace the whole flush assembly
It seems as if you have an obstruction that may be floating around in the pipe or valve. Sometimes it obstructs sometimes it flows clear. I would start with changing the water valve. If this is the old style "gate" valve there are several things that can clog the line. I would replace it with a 1/4 turn ball valve. That will give you much better flow than a gate valve. You will need to shut down the water probably at the main. The old valve is probably soldered, but you could cut it off and use a compression type valve instead. "Sharkbite" is one such supplier. Although I have never used their compression valve, I have used their end caps and found them to work well.
If you can have someone hold a bucket under the pipe once you cut off the valve and then a second person turns on the water main to fill the bucket to purge the line of any debris. With cast iron pipes it is common to get clogs from rust build up. The rust may not pass the small opening in the old gate valve when you first purged the line.. Although you did not mention what type of pipes you have, if it's copper than you won't normally find rust obstructions..
Best Answer
There are a few odd flapper styles, such as American Standard (read non-standard)
Others offer flapper and seat combo
Then there are simply universal flappers of various designs
Steps to repair:
Most recent flapper attachment mechanisms are plastic rings (old style were brass with bolts) that snap around the inlet tube.
SUPPLEMENT: Based on the added comments, it sounds as if your fill valve is clogged or broken. The valve may look like this (a relatively recent type)
The arm on top rises with the float around the tube and shuts off a valve internally. On this type, the top cap can be removed by pressing down on it and rotating counterclockwise. There is often grit in the valve, right under the cap, that can interfere with its closure. You can clean out the grit, reinstall the cap, and the valve may work fine. If not, replace it for less than $10.
There are other types of fill valves, including some older brass ones that may be harder to service. It is usually easier to replace them than fix them. They are pretty standard, height being the primary difference, and there are adjustable height valves available. They install pretty easily, but be sure to check for leaks from the bottom of the tank after installation.
There are a few newer, more complicated filling and flushing mechanisms, but you would need to provide a picture for info as to how to service.