Most of our back/side yard is 3'-5' lower than our neighbors'.During winter rainstorms water drains under the fence from their barely landscaped yard and stands in low spots AND at our house slab. A newly installed 75 gal sump which we pump out doesn't solve the problem, especially since we removed a large Monterey Pine on the fence line at their request.
Think there's now a CA law requiring residents to keep water originating on their property to on that property. I'll try again to talk to them, but I would prefer to hire a professional with drainage experience to write a report or talk to them about it? Sugggestions besides engineer? Rainy season won't go on forever! GThanks a million
How prevent water drainage from neighbor’s yard
drainage
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If I understand your issue correctly, what you're calling a french drain may actually more properly be called a drywell. A french drain pulls in groundwater and moves it somewhere else, while a drywell is a place to get rid of water underground. I think what you're talking about is something to pipe your downspouts into, and therefore I'd call it a drywell.
That said, one can construct a drywell in a similar manner to a french drain, by digging a trench and filling it with gravel and a perforated drain pipe.
The key difference to understand, however, is that if what you really want is a drywell to get rid of water, it may need to be bigger than you think. The rainwater doesn't immediately disappear into the ground surrounding your drywell, you need to provide some storage space so that you can hold the water while it can slowly leeches into the ground.
You may want to quickly estimate how much water you need to deal with. Estimate the square footage of roof drained by these downspouts, and then multiply by a rainfall amount (some sources say look up a 5-year 24 hr rainfall amount for your area, other sources say simply use 1"), to get an estimate of the volume of water that could be flowing out of these downspouts. It adds up quickly!
If you simply dig a hole and fill it with crushed stone, you may need a big old hole, as crushed stone can have a void space of around 40%, so you'd need a hole 2.5 times bigger than your estimated roof runoff.
Therefore, you may want to consider an underground structure for your drywell, rather than simply filling a hole or trench with gravel.
One such product is made by NDS, called the Flo-well. It's a nice compact solution that can sometimes provide a good match for an individual downspout. You can stack them or daisy-chain them if you need more volume. Dig a hole, place the well, and backfill with gravel then topsoil. Simply plumb your downspouts into the drywell with PVC. The flo-well provides open space to hold lots of water, and has holes in its sides to allow the water out into the surrounding gravel and soil.
Or you could go with something even bigger if required, like some of the giant structures from Cultec that can hold up to 1200 Gal each, probably overkill for your application. These are like underground archways with open bottoms for the water to leech out of. Again, you'd dig a hole, lay a bed of gravel, place the chamber, and backfill with gravel then topsoil.
I have no affiliation with either of these suppliers, but have done some homework on this product space as I have a drainage issue of my own that needs solving on a tight, urban lot.
NOTE: If you are extra lucky and your property has some grade to it in just the right spot, it may be possible to simply run a pipe underground from the downspouts away from the house and have it come out the side of a hill to a place that you don't mind being flooded with rainwater. This is way simpler than a drywell. Just make sure to maintain positive drainage all along the pipe run (1/8" per foot or so).
image from www.askthebuilder.com
..Your driveway would be the cracked concrete slab to the left, I assume?
If the picture is not misleading, there appears to be some slope towards the street. If so, rent a concrete saw or buy a concrete blade for a saw you own (but unless you own a water-cooled saw, a rental saw that is water-cooled will generally do a better job, faster) and cut a bunch of grooves 1/2" (or so) deep leading to the curb/gutter at streetside.
That may be all you need to do, or you may need to make some sort of raised edging at the right side of the driveway. That would probably best suit the area if formed from concrete, but something like a rubber glue-down garage door bottom seal (the type that's stuck to the floor, not the type that's stuck to the door) might be quicker and cheaper, until it dies in the sun and needs to be replaced.
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Best Answer
Can you pass the buck elsewhere?
Water needs to go to a lower place - storm drain or elsewhere. Typically you'd connect low spots with a drainage conduit (french drain [buried channel of gravel/pebbles], or plastic drainage pipes) and connect that to an even lower area like a storm drain or sewer. If you can't connect low spots, you can protect them by placing drainage conduits across the path water would likely run.
You might also use pumps to help the process along if gravity is inadequate.
You could also install a dry well, which is basically an underground tank for the water to collect. It's perforated to eventually drain, so permeability of surrounding soil needs consideration.
I know the law says water on a property should be contained, but what if that's the natural state of the land? E.g. If a creek flows between properties, very little can be done to stop it short of redirecting the creek elsewhere.