I looked into this some and there is no easy answer. Appliances are a 4 ( brushed) finish,BUT different mills may supply slightly different appearances. It is close to a 120 grit finish. I have four SS appliances , 3 different manufacturers all
Korean but the finishes do not look identical .I doubt there is a coating. Mine all all non-magnetic SS ( " 18-8" or 304 ). When I was shopping I found 90 % of the US manufacturers use magnetic SS ( 13 chrome ).Again the alloy will not significantly affect the appearance. I tried rubbing a hidden spot with 180 silicon carbide paper and it polished ; it was too fine. I then tried 150 sand paper ; still too fine. A "net" site said the finish should be equivalent to 120 grit ; that sounds like a good possibility . I don't think any coating is significant . Summary : Try 120 grit paper.
OK, a few definitions:
Yield strength is the amount of force required to cause the steel to yield, which means permanently deform (i.e. permanently stretch).
Tensile strength (a.k.a. "ultimate strength") is the amount of force required to cause the steel to actually break. This will be equal to or greater than the yield strength.
Minimum just means that the steel will be at least that strong.
Hardness is a measure of how resistant the steel is to scratching and denting. For structural usage it's probably not important, but would be important if you were looking for a durable finish, e.g. a workbench top or a tool bearing point.
Stiffness (you didn't ask about this, but it's another way of looking at the strength of a material) is a measure of how much something deflects when you put a force on it. Steel alloys tend to be pretty similar in this regard.
As you can see, "strongest" doesn't really have a specific definition, it depends on what you're looking for.
Here's an analogy for the difference between yield and tensile strength:
Imagine you have a spring. You pull on it a little, and when you let go it returns to its original shape. This is "elastic deformation", and no damage has been done. Now you pull hard on the spring and it doesn't return to it's original shape anymore. The material has yielded and you have "plastic deformation". This may or may not be considered "failure", depending on the application. Now pull really hard and the spring breaks. That's the ultimate strength. Clearly the spring has failed now.
As for the ranges: "steel" is a non-specific name for several alloys and it can be made in several grades, hence the ranges you've found. The material is usually designated with an alloy number. "Cold rolled" and "hot rolled" are methods for shaping the steel, and don't really tell you anything about the strength.
I should also point out that all of these properties that I've mentioned are for the steel material itself. If you want to know the behavior of an actual piece of steel, you need to know both its material and it's shape.
Best Answer
That application obviously results in a lot of torsional stress on the part. You'll want to drill the top for bolts and nuts, as opposed to using sheet metal screws, which will eventually work loose.
I'd size them to the holes in the bracket plate. The type of bolt isn't really important, but you probably want something with a low head profile. It must be stainless, of course. Use lock washers under the nuts, or use flat washers and stop nuts (with nylon inserts).
You may also want to add a backer plate of heavier material to reduce flex in the table, depending on its thickness gauge. 1/4" aluminum bar between the nuts and the table would do well.
Drilling stainless can be challenging. Do a little reading on tools and technique.