As far as books, I highly recommend The Complete Book of Woodworking: http://www.amazon.com/The-Complete-Book-Woodworking-Detailed/dp/1890621366/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1335885982&sr=8-1. It's easy to follow even for the uninitiated. It goes over the major tools, what they are used for, and has excellent instructions on some starter and intermediate projects. There are even some workbench projects toward the end, one of which is made only from plywood and 2x4 lumber. I made it with a jigsaw and really uneven cuts, and it's held together well for about a year (it's usable for everything except hand planing). I'm also a software engineer by trade and learn well from books, so I spent a good few months obsessing over this book in my apartment before buying a house and really getting started.
For video instruction, The Wood Whisperer is one of my favorites; he gets into what tools are used for, how to set them up and tune them, and has some videos dedicated to safety. He's also very technical and comes from a science background, so the engineer in me relates well with him. He doesn't leave out many details. Fine Woodworking is also very good and for $5 a month you can get access to a ton of video content.
http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com
http://www.finewoodworking.com
SawmillCreek and WoodworkingTalk are nice forums to search through for tips and discussions about what tools are best used for what projects.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com
Most of these will discuss fine woodworking, furniture making, and detailed joinery, which you may or may not be interested in. All of them, however, will give you information you want about tool usage. It may be more detail than what you're interested in for the projects you describe, but if anything you'll be over-prepared.
There is no reliable data I know of for the ultimate strength of expansion anchors in brick masonry. It's not a viable anchor system no matter how many you use (within reason). You are almost better off with no protection because then you will make damn sure you do not fall. (Just kidding, but there is some logic to this amongst rock climbers).
An anchor system around the entire chimney is a much better option if properly placed. As you note, there is a risk of the entire chimney failing. This risk is difficult to assess, depending on the chimney's age, method of construction (reinforced?), type of brick, the mortar mix used, it's anchorage to adjacent structure, etc. The anchor should be placed as close to the highest chimney anchorage as possible, though it increases your fall distance, it decreases the bending moment in the structure.
If the resulting fall distance is unacceptable, or there is no anchorage, you need to consider alternatives. An anchor system installed into the structure of the building is most secure. This allows possibly a higher anchor (less fall distance) and a more desirable fall factor (proportionally more rope involved for a given fall distance reduces shock loading). This will involve locating structural members and using appropriate fasteners, as well as dealing with sealing around the anchor to prevent roof leaks.
There are manufactured fall arrest anchors suitable to such applications. By following recommended installation instructions, these anchors in the US are OSHA approved and will resist 5000 lbs of force. This is the only sure way of achieving an adequate anchor system.
In the US, OSHA fall protection requirements are applicable to work done on single family residences.
That's the official line as I know it. That said, I have a similar situation where I sank a single 5/16"x3" solid, shouldered eye screw (hot dipped galvanized) into the center of one roof rafter, straight through the roofing, sealant applied before applying the final few turns. It's been there for decades with no evidence of leakage or corrosion. It does not meet OSHA standards but I consider it marginally adequate in the event of a fall for my particular situation. It will not be adequate for other situations.
Best Answer
Why not consider that the times when you need to move big things up and down the narrow stairs would be seldom and under specifically controlled conditions. For example think of a strategy where you only have the rail open when moving furniture up and down from the loft. This strategy can put a whole different spin on the type of scheme that you could use for temporarily removing the railing.
One approach could be to build the railing unit up in one or two sections and then bolt it into place using lag bolts or hex head bolts and T-Nuts embedded into the "mount to" frame if the stairway.
Another approach could utilize a mounting that worked much like the stake pockets used for truck and wagon side boards. These brackets look something like this:
This picture gives an idea of how these are utilized for trailer sides:
A similar scheme could be used for your railing whereby the sections of the railing could be simply lifted up to take them out and away for the furniture moving scenario. For safety sake a screw could easily be added through the bracket into the post to prevent accidental lifting out.