If you cannot find wooden porch rail parts long enough in your local home center, you can use stair rail parts. The handrail comes in lengths up to 16 feet, in oak or hemlock.
You would also need shoerail.
The center section of each comes out to leave a channel to hold the balusters.
All of these are unfinished, but you may be able to find primed versions.
Assuming you are lifting the shoerail above the porch floor (the most common style), you need to support the shoe rail in several places along the 9 foot run. The balusters will then support the middle of the rail.
You might also consider putting a newel post in the middle of the rail run to break it up and increase the lateral stability (toward and away from the house).
Fancier ones are also available.
All of these parts are unfinished and not pressure treated. They do need careful priming and painting (including the cut ends) preferably prior to assembly. They also need regular maintenance, but would give a great look.
You may be able to find similar materials in pressure treated lumber or cedar, both of which are more rot and weather resistant with more limited maintenance (but they do need some). However the longer runs may be harder to find.
If you are putting in a middle newel post, you also could use some of the prefab rail sections, either wood or metal since each section would be slightly less than 4.5 feet.
Should be pretty simple. You just need a way to gently raise the railing up enough to get the block underneath. I would do this slowly over a number of days and raise it the absolute minimum amount. Once you get there, slide the block underneath, slowly remove the support, and you're done.
Best Answer
It appears that the rim joist to which the railing is attached was nailed/screwed into the end grain of the floor joists. This is an exceptionally weak connection and why toe nailing is standard when fastening perpendicular framing. If this is the case, new screws or bolts won't really change anything.
My recommendation is use framing connectors such as those manufactured by Strong-Tie and USP. These come in a variety of configurations such as angles and plates. They are also manufactured in a variety of sizes, gauges, and to receive varying numbers of fasteners. They are reasonably easy to install for even a casual carpenter and reduce the likelihood of splitting the wood members and struggling with bent nails. This comes at a higher material cost, but not of the sort that will break a reasonable budget.