How to fix a loose door frame

From the pictures it looks like the cracks may only be in the stucco, and the underlying structural wall may be unaffected. It's hard to tell without actually inspecting the wall, but my guess is that these cracks are only skin deep. However, you will want to treat them to prevent them from spreading.

Here is a good article about Cracks in stucco.

Here are some excerpts from the article.

All buildings are subjected to a variety of stresses in various forms and this stress is often transferred to the plaster stucco membrane.

Stucco is not and never was intended to be a structural material.

Cement stucco is a relatively thin, brittle shell over a framed structure and can crack if the stresses are transferred and overcome the strength of the plaster membrane.

SHRINKAGE STRESS

All Portland cement shrinks as it cures. Controlling and minimizing that shrinkage is critical to minimizing cracks

Shrinkage cracking tends to have a map-like cracking pattern.

OUTSIDE SOURCES

Structural loads, lateral force racking, thermal changes, wind, lumber shrinkage and seismic events are all examples of outside sources of stress.

HOW HARMFUL IS A HAIRLINE CRACK?

a hairline crack does not automatically mean the stucco is faulty, failing or will not function for the service life of the building.

MAKING REPAIRS

Once the decision is made to make repairs, there are several options.

Option 1: Treat the joint with the same finish material.

Option 2: Paint the wall or ceiling after treating the crack with an acrylic paint or paint designed for stucco.

Option 3: An elastomeric paint coating.

Option 4: Recoat the wall from architectural break to architectural break with the same finish material.

Option 5: A new basecoat and mesh over the wall area.

Ok Kenny, here is the plan. You can remove one Jack stud and door header with a sawzall(cutting between the studs to cut the nails) and some work. You can then replace the jack stud with a 3/4" board cut to 3 1/2" width and the new 3/4" higher height. Put a 3/4" block on top of the remaining jack stud and reinstall the header 2X4. It will still fit between the outside studs and be supported 3/4" higher then before. Obviously, you will have to trim some drywall away to do this, but that can be pieced in and patched fairly easily and if you're careful cutting it before the demo begins. The drywall seam may be covered by the door trim. The result will be a finished opening 3/4 inches wider and taller than you started with. Your new door should slide right in! Good Luck.