How do you wire the above units so the smoke/co detectors will all ring when heat detectors are activated. The heat detectors are a two wire hook-up. Existing wiring to heat detectors is existing and in wall. Hard to change to 3-wire.
How to interconnect Kidde smoke/co combo detectors Mod# KN-cope_IC with Edwards Heat detectors Mod# CR-135-2 using relay SM120X
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All hardwired alarms are interoperable. If one alarm goes off it energizes the third wire and all other ones go screaming too. I have quite a few hardwired alarms and many of them are different brands.
I can't speak to the regulatory side of this, other than to say I'd be very surprised if a custom-built circuit like you're describing would pass an inspection just for the fact that it's a non-UL/CSA approved device on a life safety circuit. Being in a private residence at least will relax the requirements compared to a commercial or multi-tenant building, but connecting non-listed circuits and devices is tough in any case.
Rather than using a custom circuit, there are interconnect relays on the market that are designed for doing precisely this type of thing. For example, Kidde has a SM120X module that is designed to interface to external strobes/sirens/etc, as well as accept activation input for the interconnect circuit (using pull stations and rate-of-rise heat detectors as examples).
You should be able to use one of these and hook up your flow sensor in place of the pull station in the diagram above.
To me, it seems there is a low risk of impact:
- This device is UL-listed
- It's a manufacturer device, designed to interconnect with the manufacturer's own products
- In this case, the signal between sprinkler and fire alarm is really a secondary system: if there is smoke, whether the sprinklers have activated or not, a detector should be activated and signal the other alarms anyway. In other words, if this device/connection fails in anyway, it is not critical to safety.
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Best Answer
You'll need to run a /3 cable from the smoke alarm run to wherever you want the relay to go, and a /2 cable from the heat detectors to the relay location, which will need a box at it (a simple 4" square box will do if you aren't putting the relay at a smoke or heat detector location).
Once that is done, connect one wire of the /2 cable to the red wire in the /3 cable, black and white on the relay module to the matching wires on the /3 cable, the grey wire on the module to the other wire in the /2 cable, and all grounds together and to the box the relay is in, if it's a metal box that is.
This way, the 9V supply from the SM120X will be connected to the red interconnect wire when the heat detectors close, causing the smoke alarms to sound. Note that the heat detectors will only work if there is 120V AC power available to the house, even if the smoke detectors themselves have battery backup. (The SM120X doesn't provide a backup battery for its 9V supply, in other words.)