I replaced the widows in my house this spring, and you're asking a lot of the same questions I asked.
First, the cost of the windows themselves is only part of the equation. You also need to consider the removal of the old windows, installation of the new ones, and the finish work - because chances are, all the trim, and all of the interior sills will also need to be replaced. Installation can actually be 50% of the cost of the job, and a poor installation will ruin any value you might get from buying a top-notch window.
There are a few things to consider when looking at the windows themselves. First, as you point out, is the construction. I ended up going with vinyl - again, a quality vinyl window and a cheap vinyl window are two different things - the local shop here had examples of a number of different windows cut open so you can see the difference. Cheap windows may not be insulated, or may be made up of different pieces glued together, rather than a single extruded piece.
Next, the glass. You can get single, double, or even triple panes. Some use argon between the panes, some don't - the sealed, argon-filled windows offer better insulation. Then there's the low-e coating on the glass - it can be applied in different ways, which will affect the durability and effectiveness of the window.
You need to consider casement vs single hung vs double hung. Are they on a 2nd or 3rd story? You'll probably want to get a window that allows you to clean the outside without having to get up on a ladder - most double-hung windows will allow you to clean it from the inside of the house. If you're putting windows into a bedroom, you have to allow for a certain size for egress - you may need to go with a casement window in that case.
The bottom line is, check around - get at least 3 estimates, unless you're planning on installing them yourself. See what's included in the estimate - one of our estimates included a single line item for "Installation", while another had 3 pages of details, down to the number of board-feet of trim, cans of foam insulation, and the cost of the building permit. Guess which one we went with?
I see in the bottom picture, the bottom is a tilt in sash, easy to remove. The top sash CAN be made a tilt in, it is missing the ballasts that keep it from dropping. It is now held in place by a metal or plastic clip that holds it in place. Find these, remove them and the sash will drop, and therefore, able to be removed. I see a screw visible near the tilt latch that may be one of the few to remove in order to drop the upper sash. Then again, that one may do nothing, I would expect to find the screws to lower the sash, under the upper sash, hidden by the lower sash. Remove the lower sash first the rest should go from there.
Most tilt in windows work the same, raise it a little, pull the clips in toward the center, lower the top so the plane of the window is perpendicular to it normal position, and lift one edge up, either the left or right, does not matter.
The rest is the same as the other answer, it will cost a little more maybe since you have the bars between the glass, then again....
Best Answer
Glazing manufacturers have spent decades perfecting a spacer system that does not eventually leak and condense. They still haven't completely perfected it, though they are much better than 20 years ago. There is no way you're going to put together a system that does not eventually leak, especially with a vacuum. You'll have a better chance with inert gas, but I'm not convinced even professional argon filled glazing stays argon filled years later. It's not that I doubt your fabrication skills, it's just that it's a very difficult problem to address.
For all the time and effort spent assembling a window system, it's worth buying professionally built glazing units. If you want to save some money, forgo the argon filled and simply get dual glazed units with a low-E coating. IMO, these offer decent thermal performance and good value.