Stop sanding immediately! Lead based dust is the worst threat of all. Simply painting over it to encapsulate it is the simplest measure.
To fully remove the lead paint is a big chore, and important to do right. Look for local community classes if you can - the local one here had some classes on lead certification. The short answer is, you have to seal the area off with plastic, wear a hazmat suit, scrape it all off and remove the paint from the premise, and then clean up all the dust.
You can google around and turn up tons of hits for lead removal procedures, here's the first I found and looks pretty good:
http://www.health.state.mn.us/divs/eh/lead/homes/interior.html
One tool I used in my own lead paint removal was http://www.speedheater.us/
While it is stated not to use heat guns to remove lead paint, this one is a much lower temperature version that is much safer. The fumes are still an issue so make sure there is ventilation to outside while working. (Not related to speed heater, just a happy customer)
I know this may be a little longer than you might want but it is rather important.
Short answer - Use a heat gun and mineral spirits.
Removing Paint from Wrought Iron, Cast Iron and Steel Using Thermal Methods
This specification provides guidance on the selection of appropriate thermal methods of paint and rust removal from wrought iron, cast iron and steel. These metals should be repainted immediately following paint removal in order to prevent exposure to the atmosphere and subsequent corrosion.
Thermal methods as used herein shall apply to high velocity oxy acetylene or oxy propane flame cleaning, a standard surface preparation method for steel and cast iron, or to the heat gun.
- The heat gun works using a hot blast of air at 500 to 750 degrees Fahrenheit. Extreme caution should be taken when using this method.
Heat higher than 1100 degrees Fahrenheit will vaporize lead paint and is hazardous.
The hot air blast produced by the heat gun can ignite debris within a wall cavity or behind a cornice or soffit. The dust can smolder only to ignite hours later after the work crew has gone home so extreme caution must be taken when using this method.
As with flame cleaning, the hot air of a heat gun can overheat cast iron and steel features creating localized thermal stresses, or causing small sections to become distorted.
There are several causes for paint failure on metal.
Excess moisture can cause rusting. As metal rusts, the rust expands breaking the bond between the metal and the paint.
Inadequate or improper surface preparation can interfere with the proper bonding of the new paint. The wrong primer can cause anything from pitting of the metal surface to peeling of the new paint.
It is not necessary to remove all previous coats of paint if:
- They are adhering soundly.
- The new painting system is compatible.
- Important design details are not being obscured by the paint layers.
Chemical products are sometimes sold under a common name.
This usually means that the substance is not as pure as the same chemical sold under its chemical name. The grade of purity of common name substances, however, is usually adequate for stain removal work, and these products should be purchased when available, as they tend to be less expensive. Common names are indicated below by an asterisk (*).
Mineral Spirits:
- A petroleum distillate that is used especially as a paint or varnish thinner.
- Other chemical or common names include Benzine* (not Benzene); Naphtha*; Petroleum spirits*; Solvent naphtha*.
- Potential Hazards: TOXIC AND FLAMMABLE.
- AVOID REPEATED OR PROLONGED SKIN CONTACT.
ALWAYS wear rubber gloves when handling mineral spirits.
If any chemical is splashed onto the skin, wash immediately with soap and water.
Available from construction specialties distributor, hardware store, paint store, or printer's supply distributor.
Here is a video link on YT for removing paint off metal
Stripping paint with heat gun 1965 Mustang
![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ip5Kx.jpg)
Best Answer
ANY paint will turn to dust eventually. Removing the large flakes and re-painting is your best bet.
I will say, for a home built in the 70's there is only a very small likelihood that there is any lead paint present. I took the lead paint course, and I'd have to look the numbers up, but for a home built in the 1800's and early 1900's the likelihood is in 90% range. that number decreases down to the 10% range by the 70's, and lead paint was banned in 1978. I've seen scare tactic quotes that say "Three-quarters of the homes built before 1978 contain some lead-based paint." While this is true it is highly misleading.
Do a web search. There is more info on lead paint that you'll care to look at. Lead has become another buzz word like asbestos, and a lot of people are making a lot of money off it.