boltsremoval
I have a utility sink that is sitting on 4 legs, the front two bolted to my cement floor and I want to remove it.
I'm not sure what kind of bolts these are. From looking at different kinds of bolts online they might be carriage or timber bolts.
How do I remove these? Is it as simple as having a pry bar and working it under to pull the bolt up out of the floor? That's what I briefly attempted to do, but I'm overly
paranoid of doing damage and complicating things.
I would try a Dremel type tool with an abrasive cutoff wheel. Of course you need to be careful of the porcelain. I've cut many screws and bolts this way.
If you can't cut the bolt, you may be able to cut the nut, in the direction of the bolt's axis, then pry the nut apart at the cut line.
As long as the wood that you use to construct your bed frame is strong enough in its own right to be used as a bed frame you should have no problems supporting the frame from both ends by bolting into the concrete wall.
Bolts that are 1/2" in diameter should be plenty strong in shear to support a bed frame mounted in this manner. Three or four equally spaced bolts per end would give you an even distribution of support for the frame at each of the concrete walls. If you can penetrate the walls by two to three inches and install good quality anchors there should be no problems with the bolts staying tight and in place. Using a drop-in internally threaded anchor type should provide you the ability to use standard threaded bolts that can then be removed easily with the anchor staying in place in the wall. If you look at the RM-12 type you'll need 5/8 inch holes in the wall that are a minimum of 2" deep. This type of anchor also includes the need of a setting tool to expand the anchor into the concrete before installing the threaded bolts. The RM-12 offers a 3/4" thread depth.
For best application of the bed frame it would be recommended to build it to fit to the shape of the walls so that the end pieces can be solidly bolted up to the wall. If you elect to stay with the rectangular frame and then I would recommend that backer be placed behind the end piece where each bolt is located. Obviously a wedge piece, as you surmised, would be the best as a full length backer. If you do go with just backer blocks or the wedge one way to get a nice look would be to add an additional facer trim board as shown below. If the gap out of square across the width of the bed is only 1" you will never notice it once you get a matress and bedding up on the deck.
Best Answer
Those look like concrete nails to me. Might have been hand-hammered in, but if it's somewhat recent, it was probably driven in with a powder-actuated system.
You don't usually try to pull these out. My advice is to cut/grind away the head. You can do this with a Dremel tool and an abrasive disk; it will take a while, but it's simple to do and easy to control.
Or, you can use an angle grinder. That will take away the head much more quickly, but it's a little harder to control. Make sure to use the screw-in handled if you do this.
Once the head it gone, remove the sink, and then either cut off the protruding fastener or just grind it away.