I'm guessing these shattered because of shock or perhaps from being fully extended more than normal since the front wheel takes a lot of the weight when drawer is fully extended. The rail is acting as a lever where 10kg in the front of the drawer could easily be the equivalent of 100kg on that wheel when the drawer is fully open. The other thoughts are if someone where to lean on the drawer or if the cabinet was being moved and dropped.
I've seen replacement wheels, but they tend to be for specific rails/sliders, and I doubt you'd get a good result without a perfect match. For replacing the entire slider, I'd look for a replacement with a high weight limit. I've seen sliders in the US that are designed for 50kg, which I'm guessing would more than handle your load.
We did turn off the water last night and the power to the water pump and found that over a couple hours time we lost all the water in our reserve tank. Does this sound like a leak to you?
Maybe. Was the reservoir tank cut off (like with a valve) from draining back down the well? If there is a check valve, is it in good working order? If not, it is hard to say whether the reservoir fed a leak or just emptied back into the well.
To more definitively indicate if well water is causing the observed ground water, turn off the pump, close all the water valves (to prevent water flowing out of the pump house) and wait. Observe the ground water level every hour or two—maybe put in a stake or stick in the hole to better track it. Does the water go down? If so, a leak seems likely.
Leak detection
Doing a standard pipe pressure test would indicate quickly and conclusively identify whether there is a leak anywhere. It requires containing the pipe under test by closing valves or disconnecting and capping pipe, adding a gauge or other measuring device, and pressurizing the pipe, perhaps with a bicycle tire pump—a gas pipe pressure testing gauge has an air valve for this purpose; I haven't seen anything directly comparable for water pipes. Then just wait and watch. The pressure should remain, dropping no more than 5% per hour. (In my experience, temporary caps and a gauge for leak testing are the source of most pressure testing leaks. Generously apply plumbers tape.)
Finding a leak
If a leak is detected, then there are several choices to fix it find it and fix it. Which you choose depends on the specific situation, your budget, and your patience:
- dig up all the pipe to inspect for leaks
- abandon the existing pipe and install new
- Sherlock Holmes
The first two are self-explanatory. The third involves looking for clues. Can you isolate part of the system—the hot water portion is an easy and obvious example—and see if leak continues? Maybe there is another portion: outdoor faucets, sprinkler system, barn, etc. which can be individually cut off from the main system.
A leak is most likely to develop at a pipe joint and the location of joints are reasonably predictable. If the pipe is PVC for example, it usually comes in 10 foot lengths (at least in the U.S.—but if it is freezing where you are, probably you are south of the equator so some other length—3 m?—applies), so you only need dig a hole every pipe joint to check—at least with good luck.
Also consider any recent changes if it got worse: Has a fence post been installed or did a tree fall? Dig around there for to look for pipe.
Best Answer
Quick and dirty
You could try some Fix-a-Flat. If nothing else, it might show you where the leak is.
Finding the leak
Pump the tires up and apply some soapy water to them, or hold them underwater in a large bucket. This will help you locate the leak(s).
Plugging the hole
If the leak is in the tread, you could try a tire repair kit like this
If the leak is in the sidewall, you'll have to replace the tire.
If the leak is near the rim (and the rim is not bent), remounting the tire might fix the problem.