My home was built in 1959. The clean out cap in the basement is 2.5" ID but it doesn't have threads. It has 2 nubs (now it only has one) opposite each other that fit into two notches in the pipe. I'm assuming you place it and turn to close it. I found it today laying on the concrete floor, one nub is missing and the whole thing looks pretty corroded. Can I replace the cap, I've been looking online and don't see any that look like mine, just threaded ones.
How to repair this sewer cap
repairsewer
Related Solutions
I was able to find a reference to this in chapter 22 of The Complete Idiot's Guide to Household Solutions.
Though honestly, I've never heard of this approach until now. I'm no expert on the corrosiveness of salt, but I would imagine the levels of salt in the sewer would not be high enough to rust the pipe. I'm also skeptical that the salt levels would be high enough to completely kill and prevent the roots. While I wouldn't recommend pouring a bag for rock salt down the drain, a handful once or twice a month will probably not hurt the pipe.
There are other tried and true methods to remove roots from sewer lines.
Mechanincal
Augers
Augers can be used to effectively remove roots from a sewer line, by cutting the roots out. This is not likely a solution for a DIYer, since it involves expensive specialty tools. This method will not prevent roots from growing back into the sewer.
Hydrojetters
A hydrojetter is essentially a power washer with a rotating mechanical "sweeper", that is designed to be fed into the sewer line and blast and sweep roots away. Again, this is not likely a DIY option and does not prevent the roots from regrowing.
Digging
In some cases roots may have caused too much damage to the sewer line, and the only option available is to dig the line up and replace it. This can be very expensive, and will almost certainly not be a DIY project.
Chemical
Contact Herbicides
Contact herbicides are chemicals that will kill the roots, and in some cases prevent them from regrowing. These are typically a more DIY friendly option, and can be found as simple "pour down" solutions.
Contact herbicides can include:
- Bensulide
- Copper Sulfide
- Dichlobanil
- Dinoseb
- Metham sodium
- Paraquat
- Potasium Hydroxide
- Sulfamic Acid
- Trifluralin
A common product recommended by plumbers is RootX. This is a herbicide in a foaming carrying agent, that allows the herbicide to reach roots at the top of the pipe. RootX uses Dichlobenil, and is non-caustic, non-fumigating, and non-systemic. Unfortunately, it's not readily available to homeowners, so you'll likely have to contact a plumber for this treatment.
Searching around, I stumbled upon a product similar to RootX that is available to homeowners. Roebic® Foaming Root Killer is available at Lowes for about $20.00. It foams up, and uses dichlobenil as the herbicide just like RootX.
Make sure you check with your local municipality and environmental agencies, before pouring chemicals down your drain
Planning
One of the best ways to prevent roots from entering your sewer line, is to carefully plan where you plant trees and other deep rooting plants.
The right way to do it is dig out and repour the concrete in the area. This isn't that hard or expensive.
If you want just a stopgap until you decide what you are doing with your main line then you could get a bucket of hydraulic cement and patch over the existing concrete. The cracked concrete should not be affecting your stack - hopefully - so this is really a different issue than your plumbing problem.
Related Topic
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- Concrete – How to repair a cinder block wall around a sewer line
- How to cut cement sewer line to add cleanout
- Sewer main backups
- How to hide a sewer ‘Candy Cane’
- Backwater Valve Access Sleeve Cap Broken… sewer gas smell
- Plumbing – Sewer line repair – most cost effective method
Best Answer
If the pipe itself is in good enough shape, you could just use a compression cleanout plug (sometimes called a mechanical cleanout plug) or a pressure testing plug:
There are quite a few different styles of these, but almost all of them work by compressing and expanding a rubber gasket inside the pipe. 2.5" might be hard to find at the big box stores, but they are available numerous places online. The main consideration would be finding one that would seat deep enough into the pipe that it would be beyond the notches for the old cap.